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Migration
2007 pinot noir has style You'll agree that Migration is a good winery to gravitate toward when you taste its 2007 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. Duckhorn winery has been producing top-flight cabernet sauvignon and merlot wines since its founding in 1978. Over its 30-year history, Duckhorn Wine Co. has started three other wineries: Paraduxx, Goldeneye and Migration. Napa Valley Paraduxx focuses on a red wine made from zinfandel and cabernet sauvignon; Goldeneye and Migration are farther north in the Anderson Valley, making wines from pinot noir and chardonnay. Neil
Bernardi is the 29-year old winemaker at Migration. Last month,
he made is first trip to New York, and was welcome with a 14-inch
snowstorm. His wines treat us a lot better. Bernardi graduated from
America's top enology school, the University of California at Davis,
and worked in New Zealand before teaming up with Zach Rasmuson,
the winemaker at Goldeneye Make
space in your cellar for 2005 Domaine de Chevalier Domaine de Chevalier is found on a 1763 map as Domaine de Chibaley, the Gascon word for knight. A century later, it was purchased by Arnaud and Jean Ricard and began its rise to fame. The Bernard family, successful Bordeaux wine and spirits traders, purchased the property from Claude Ricard in 1983. They tasked their 23-year old son, Olivier Bernard, to build upon its history of quality. For the last quarter-century, he has done exactly that. I don't know whether I first met Olivier Bernard on one of my trips to Bordeaux, or one of his to New York, but I do know that I liked his red and white wines from the first sip. Located in the village of Leognan, part of the Graves area of Bordeaux, Domaine de Chevalier is one of the very few chateaux in the entire region whose red and white wines have been classified Grand Cru Classe. Earlier
this month, at the Wine Media
Guild, Olivier Bernard presented with his trademark candor and
liveliness three vintages of his white wine: 2001, 2005, and 2007;
and his red wine from 2000 to the 2007. Nero
d'Avola is a superior everyday wine Nero d'Avola is a red wine grape acclaimed in Avola, Sicily; the name means "black from Avola." Until the last twenty years, nero d'Avola was used for fortifying weaker wines in northern Italy and France. Left on its own, nero d'Avola is capable of producing wine with high alcohol, strong tannins and blackish color. Modern viticulture and winemaking techniques have tamed it for the better. The Rapitala
property was purchased in 1968 by Hugues Bernard, a Frenchman with
noble ancestry, and his wife Gigi Guarrasi, who hails from Palermo,
Sicily. When the property was destroyed in an earthquake, the couple
rebuilt it with a modern winery and replanted the hillside vineyards.
Today, Rapitala is directed by their son, Laurent Bernard, and produces
wines ranging from international chardonnay, syrah, and cabernet
sauvignon to indigenous nero d'Avola, grillo and cataratto, as well
as blends like Nura, made of nero d'Avola and pinot noir. Rose'
champagne and roses: perfect for Valentine's Day Rose' champagne and sparkling wines make their splash every February 14th. They are more smiled at than savored, and flirted over than studied. In its contribution to this annual rite of amorousness, today’s column offers a selection of these pinkish bubbly wines. Champagne is different. It's different because it must come for the Champagne region in France, 95 miles northeast of Paris; otherwise it's not Champagne, it's just a sparkling wine. It's different because it must be made from any selection of three grapes: chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier, whereas sparkling wines can be made from any grape. Carneros
conditions ripe for a crisp, clear pinot noir In 1991, the Codorníu wine company founded Artesa as a sparkling wine enterprise. Things didn’t turn out according to plan, but Codorníu is not a Johnny-come-lately to the wine world, either. Codorníu’s wine experience is documented to 1551, when Jaume Codorníu bequeathed his wine cellars, presses, barrels and vats to his heirs. Five centuries and fifteen generations later, the Barcelona-based family has eight wineries and markets in 100 countries. Drawing on that wealth of experience, Codorníu reinvented itself in Carneros in 1997 and switched from sparkling to still wines. Carneros is ideal for pinot noir and chardonnay grapes. The Carneros region stretches across the southern parts of Napa and Sonoma counties, near the San Pablo Bay. The cool breezes and morning fog from the bay keep this region cool until late morning. I recall days when I wore a coat when making morning vineyard visits, while at the same time it was hot enough in northern Napa to run the air conditioner. Chardonnay and pinot noir thrive in this temperature, attested to by centuries of great wines from Burgundy and Champagne, both cool climate regions and planted with these two grapes. Tawny
Ports and chocolates Port
wine originated in Portugal's Douro Valley. Its name derives from
the city of Oporto, from where it was shipped to England, Germany,
Holland, and other European countries beginning in the 17th century.
Today, the European Union protects the name Port within Europe,
but it is unable to enforce that regulation on wineries in America,
South Africa, Australia, and other parts of the world that put Port
on the label of their sticky sweet wines. Volpaia
reaches new Tuscan heights A few decades ago, I made an appointment to meet Giovannella Stianti, the owner of Castello di Volpaia. Turning off the main road between Greve and Radda, two historic towns in the heart of the Chianti Classico zone, I began driving up a winding road. After each twist and turn, I thought I must be approaching the top. Little did I know that Volpaia is the highest elevation winery in the Chianti region. Years have passed and multiple visits made, but Volpaia's altitude still impresses me. "It
takes a village" may have been popularized by Hillary Rodham
Clinton, but Stianti lives the phrase. In 1966, her father purchased
the Volpaia winery and most of the village, guaranteeing everyone
could live there for as long as they wanted. When Giovannella Stianti
married Carlos Mascheroni in 1972, her father presented Volpaia
as a wedding gift to the young couple. A
Chablis to savor in years to come If you are tired of oaky, high alcohol chardonnays try a glass of the 2007 Christian Moreau Chablis. Since 1814, The Moreau name has been associated with Chablis. In 1985, the family sold its business, J.Moreau & Pere, to the liquor company Hiram Walker, and Christian Moreau remained with the new owner until the mid-1990s. He devoted the next few years to regaining the original family vineyards, with success arriving in 2002. Today, Christian Moreau is producing excellent Chablis under his own label, Christian Moreau Pere& Fils, with the winemaking skills of his son, Fabien. Budget
red wine from Jaboulet Jaboulet is one of the most respected names in the wine world. Founded in 1834, the Jaboulet family produced first-class wines for more than two centuries in France's Rhone Valley. Four years ago this month, the vineyards and winery were sold to the Frey family, owners of Bordeaux's popular Chateau La Lagune and partners at Brillecart-Salmon, one of my favorite champagnes. The Parallele 45 wine is named for the latitudinal line just over a mile from Jaboulet's cellars. First made in the 1950s, Parallele 45 is one of the best good-value everyday wines in America. Jaboulet produces a red, white and rose' labeled Parallele 45, and all have the Cotes du Rhone appellation. The red is made from a blend of grenache and syrah, the two main red wine grapes of the region, and while the mix varies by vintage, grenache always makes up the majority. New
Year's Eve Sparkling Wine New Year's Eve parties can be easier on the purse and pleasant on the palate with a glass of Lucien Albrecht Blanc de Blancs Cremant d'Alsace. Romanu Albrecht moved to the town of Thann in the Alsace region in 1425, and the family documents its vineyard work and winemaking from 1520. Nearly six centuries later, Jean Albrecht oversees this family-owned and operated winery. Cremant d'Alsace is a sparkling wine made in the Champagne method. This means that after the first fermentation- changing the grape juice to alcohol- the wine undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle by adding fresh yeast and sugar. It is the second fermentation that creates the bubbles. Champagne's elegance is distinguished by the second fermentation in the bottle, as opposed to doing it in tanks and then transferring the bubbly wine into bottles. Cremant is
the French term for sparkling wines made in the Champagne method
but not from the Champagne region, 95 miles northeast of Paris.
Lucien Albrecht, the father of Jean Albrecht, was instrumental in
having the French wine authorities grant the region's sparkling
wines official status in 1976. Today, Cremant d'Alsace is the most
popular Cremant in France.
The name Bastianich is normally preceded by Lidia, the owner of New York's Felidia restaurant, cookbook author, PBS cooking show star, and arguably the most well-known Italian food personality in America. Her son, Joe, also an accomplished restaurateur, is blazing his own trail in wine. Last month, Joe Bastianich presented his northern Italian wines to the Wine Media Guild, an organization of wine writers to which I belong. He explained how he wanted to show that it was possible in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region to make world-class wines. This
area in northeastern Italy is well-known for its white wines such
as pinot grigio, pinot bianco, sauvignon, ribolla gialla, chardonnay,
and friulano. But being well-known is not synonymous with being
sought after. That distinction is what motivates Joe Bastianich
at his winery. Decanting
wine I shipped a bottle of 1995 Solaia to them in advance of my visit. I was looking forward to sharing this delicious wine with them but it never occured to me to ask if they had a decanter at their weekend home. When
the evening arrived for our dinner, we gathered in the kitchen and
began the food preparation while sharing stories and a glass of
Champagne. I took the wine glasses from the cabinet and looked around
for a decanter; not seeing one, I ask my friends where I could find
one. Champagne:
A user's guide GLASSES MAKE A DIFFERENCE In the 1950s, Hollywood movies trained the public to drink champagne from saucer-like glasses that were best used to serve ice cream or sherbet. Decades later, we returned that glass to the kitchen, and replaced it with the flute glass. But there is a new movement amongst the champagne cognoscenti: drink your champagne from an 8- to 10-ounce white wine glass. It is a movement I encourage. The
flute glass has its advantages: holding it by its long stem keeps
your hand’s temperature away from the wine; and it gives height
for the bubbles to please the eye as they rise. But it deprives
the nose and short-changes the mouth. The
best champagne: Our critics taste test For many years, I have thought that it is not possible to be depressed and drink champagne. The magical rise of the bubbles lifts your spirits; the clinking of the glasses is music to the ears. And accompanying the first sip are words of friendship: Cheers! Salute! A la votre santé! Congratulations! Happy New Year! I recently assembled a three-member champagne-tasting panel with the goal of finding the best champagnes this season has to offer. Each taster was asked to select and rate superior wines. Wine
for the holidays: Napa red by way of Jersey Charles Roy studied civil engineering, but he redesigned himself as a business-center magnate and then a winery owner. In 1981, after a career in engineering, Roy opened his first business center of executive suites in Morristown; he and his wife, Shirley, expanded this new concept into 14 more locations in New Jersey and Virginia. They sold their business in 1998 and retired, or so they thought. The
following year, they purchased a 42-acre property in Napa with the
intention of planting a vineyard to sell the grapes and enjoy retirement.
Then the best of intentions were soiled, so to speak. Bouchard
burgandy celebrates 'L'Enfant Jesus' Bouchard Père & Fils is one of Burgundy’s great wine companies. In 1731, Michel Bouchard moved his cloth business from Dauphine in the French Alps to the Burgundy wine village Volnay. Twenty years later, his son, Joseph Bouchard, began his cloth and wine business in Beaune, the center of the Burgundy wine region. During
the next four decades, Joseph Bouchard acquired a number of vineyards,
including choice plots when the new government established after
the French Revolution in 1789 confiscated and auctioned lands owned
by the Catholic church and France’s nobility. One of parcels
was the entire 10 acres of the Premier Cru Beaune Grèves
Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus; two centuries later, it remains
one of Bouchard’s best vineyards. New
Jersey wines finally get respect Some wines were made from grapes with French origins such as merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah and petit verdot; others were from less prestigious grapes like chambourcin, a hybrid of French and North American origin planted in France’s Loire Valley and northeastern America. Italy’s sangiovese grape appeared in one of our recommended wines too. Yet the one wine we each ranked in our top five wines was made from a little-known North American grape, cynthiana. Cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc are grown in Bordeaux, France; California, Australia, Chile, and other vineyard areas of the world. But soil, climate, and winemaking yield different wines. And this is true for New Jersey’s wines made from these varieties. I was struck by how these bordeaux grape varieties yielded a burgundy-like structure and taste profile when grown in the Garden State. Absent is the tannic attack of some California and Washington State wines, and thankfully missing is the 14.5 to 15.5-percent alcohol inhabiting many of those wines. Thanksgiving
wines: Riesling is ideal choice for turkey Thanksgiving, our only holiday devoted to eating, generates more wine questions than any other day of the year. Fourth of July barbecue is easy — uncork a red wine. Memorial Day Shore dinner is a cinch — open a white. The rainbow of flavors from the Thanksgiving Day menu of stuffing, sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce, pumpkin pie, green vegetables, carrots and turkey with gravy has some people reaching for red wines like zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and pinot noir, or whites like chardonnay and gewürztraminer. Yet all are too big for the menu. Riesling is a much better partner, and since this is an American holiday, the tasty, good-value Hogue Cellars will satisfy everyone and your budget, too. New
Zealand's Craggy Range Chardonnay a smooth treat for wine-lovers Craggy Range is the creation of visionary viticulturist and master of wine Steve Smith and international businessman Terry Peabody. In 1987, Peabody was searching for a way to enter the wine business. He retained Smith as a consultant who had the vineyard experience and wine knowledge to foresee the potential of undeveloped land in the Hawkes Bay area of New Zealand. In 1876, a
great flood left this a rock- and stone-filled area unsuitable for
anything but a gravel pit and quarry; however, Smith’s vision
encouraged Peabody to purchase various plots for vineyard sites.
And, in 1998, Smith became a partner, viticultural director and
general manager of Craggy Range. Merlot
Encore from Jean-Pierre Moueix a good value When the goal is buying a good value wine, reach for a bottle of the 2005 Merlot Encore from Jean-Pierre Moueix. The Moueix name is to the wine world what Tiffany is to jewelry. In addition to Château Petrus, one of the most acclaimed wines on Earth, the Mouiex family has a portfolio of gems in Bordeaux’s Pomerol and St. Émilion appellations. Along with
Petrus, other top Pomerol châteaux belonging to Moueix are
Latour À Pomerol, La Fleur Petrus, Hosanna, and my favorite,
Trotanoy. And reflecting the same high standards, Mouiex owns Châteaux
Belair and Magdelaine, two of the thirteen Premier Grand Cru Classe
wineries in St. Émilion. Fall
is the season for Port wine The train ride from Oporto to Quinta de Vargellas, in Portugal, is only a few hours, but it takes you centuries back in time. The Quinta estate is a 225-acre property, half of it planted with vines on a steep terraced hillside that descends to the banks of the Duoro River. In
1893, Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman, one of Portugal’s great
port companies, purchased Quinta de Vargellas in near-ruin from
the Phylloxera scourge that had been attacking vast areas of Europe’s
vineyards. Best
bordeaux in decades: Conditions are ripe I spent the first week of October in the vineyards and wineries of Fronsac, Pomerol, Lalande-de-Pomerol, St. Émilion and its surrounding villages, colloquially named "satellites" of St. Émilion. This section of Bordeaux is referred to as the right bank, as it lies on the right side of the Gironde River, which separates the two major wine areas of Bordeaux. Weather determines
harvest, and harvest determines quality. The cool mornings turned
into sun-filled afternoons, when I regretted both my long-sleeved
shirt and my lack of sunscreen. If the grapes could have talked,
I’m sure they would have been singing odes to the sun god. New
Zealand pinot noir comes to America Stoneleigh takes its name for the riverbed stones that populate its vineyard. Excellent wines are developed from stone-filled vineyards like those in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in France’s Rhone Valley and Bordeaux’s Graves appellation. Stone-filled vineyards reflect the sun’s heat into the vines, lengthening the ripening process into the evening while simultaneously forcing the vines to extend their roots deeper to extract moisture. This
added stress reduces the vines’ quantity of grapes but increases
its quality. Rose:
Newly-refined wine is not just for summer anymore
The last rays of the summer sun can be captured in a glass of the 2008 Chateau de Pourcieux Rosé. I have to confess that until recently, I considered rosé wines something not to be considered at all. You poured them in the heat of summer and drank them while concentrating on the shimmering sea, or what was on the grill, or the pleasure of a light lunch under the umbrella’s shade. But rosé and I have changed. Rosé has changed because winemakers began giving it the same attention they bestowed on their white and red wines. Some rosés are still made with second-rate red grapes, or as a byproduct using the inferior method of “bleeding,” a process of siphoning some red wine juice during the first hours of fermentation. Such methods are not for Chateau de Pourcieux’s rosé. Torres
family Rioja: New wine from reliable source Every acclaimed wine area has an internationally-known name attached to it: Mondavi in Napa, Drouhin in Burgundy, Rothschild in Bordeaux, Gaja in Piedmont.Spain’s Penedes region and Torres are synonymous in the wine world. For three hundred years, the family has been involved in the wine trade. Beginning in the 1960s, it single-handedly changed winemaking in the Penedes with the introduction of temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks; planting new vineyards with international grapes such as cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, riesling, and gewürztraminer. Robert
Stemmler Pinot Noir: A 'passionate' wine In 1961, German-born winemaker Robert Stemmler arrived in Napa Valley. For 15 years, he worked with the Mondavis and was the winemaker at Simi winery. In 1976, he founded Robert Stemmler winery in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley. He became passionate about Pinot Noir when few other winemakers were, and his wines were sought after. In 1989, he retired from full-time winemaking and sold the Robert Stemmler brand name to Marcus and Anne Moller-Racke. In
1981, German-born Anne Moller-Racke arrived in the Sonoma section
of the Carneros region with her husband, Marcus Moller-Racke. The
entrepreneurial Racke family had purchased Buena Vista winery and
the young couple was sent to oversee the winery operations. The
plan was to return to Germany after a year. Between then and now,
destiny took hold. A
nice white wine from Chateauneuf-du-Pape White
is not a color that most wine consumers associate with Chateauneuf-du-Pape,
but beautiful it is in a glass of Chateau Mont-Redon, 2007. Beaujolais
Cru wines: light, fruity and afforadable Beaujolais
Cru wines are not clearly understood by many wine consumers, but
one good way to start learning about them is with a glass of Christophe
Pacalet's 2007 Chiroubles. Beaujolais
is locked into the mind of wine consumers as the place that gives
us a light and frivolous November wine called Beaujolais Nouveau.
And that wine is why many consumers don't know Beaujolais' best
wines, Beaujolais Crus. Hecht
& Bannier: Wine mavericks in Languedoc region In July, I met Hecht across a sidewalk table at Le Bar a Vins in Pezenas, a small town in France's Languedoc region. I'm stretching the word "kids," as Hecht is 38 years old, and Bannier is a year older. In excellent English that Hecht perfected in his early 20s while studying at a New York business school and working at a London bank, he explained he "worked just long enough in business to decide it was better to go to the Dijon wine school for a degree." It was there that he met Bannier; over the next decade each pursued different avenues in the wine trade until 2002 when they established Hecht & Bannier negociant wine business. Domaine
Sallies Marselan enticing mix of cabernet and grenache Marselan is a hybrid grape created in 1961 by French agricultural researchers when they crossed Cabernet Sauvignon with Grenache Noir. In 2003, Domaine Sallies planted Marselan vines, and the 2007 is its first 100 percent Marselan wine. Located in the Languedoc, a huge wine region in southern France, Domaine Sallies has been owned by the Gau family for more than a century and bottles all its wines under the regional appellation Vin de Pays d'Oc. The 2007 Domaine Sallies Marselan has an eye-catching purplish hue. An enticing mix of red and black fruit aromas attest to the wisdom of crossing Cabernet Sauvignon, with its blackberry profile, and Grenache Noir, with its raspberry-like character. Rioja
wines a good value Rioja
wines offer outstanding value, and the well-made 2002 Bodegas Luis
Canas Reserva is a good example of quality-to-price. They introduced Rioja winemakers to wine aging in small French oak barrels, estate vineyard wine and the art of blending different grapes for the final wine. The beginning of the 20th century was a troublesome time for Rioja; the Phylloxera louse attacked its vineyards, and the Spanish Civil War and World War II brought economic devastation. But the second half of the century was kinder as modernization throughout Spain gave Rioja new markets and wineries, and energized winemakers. Rose
is the top wine for summer Rose
is the quintessential summer wine, and a sparkling rose, like the
good value non-vintage Segura Viudas Brut Rose, is double the pleasure.
But until a recent tasting of the brut rose, a year or more passed since my last taste of any Segura Viudas sparkling wines because, like many consumers, I order French and California sparkling wines instinctively. A twofold mistake. An
elegant chardonnay? Try Kunde Sonoma Valley Elegance
and California chardonnay are words that together rarely pass my
lips. Chardonnay on its own is a bland grape; winemakers can play
with it in many ways, from clonal selection to degrees of ripeness
to yeast selection, fermentation time and oak-aging. In 1904, Louis Kunde purchased the 1,000-acre Wildwood Vineyards in Sonoma Valley. Thirty years ago, the estate was enlarged to 1,850 acres. Today, the fifth generation of Kundes are taking up the mantel, offering consumers a range of well-made, fairly priced wines along with 21st-century ideas about land preservation. Syrah
blend for summer: Roussillon is ripe, fruity wine Summer's
ripe flavorful fruit can be found in a glass of the 2005 Chateau
de Jau Cotes du Roussillon Villages. Beginning in 1974, the Daures have worked the rugged soil establishing Chateau de Jau as one of the top Roussillon wineries. Winemaker Estelle Daure produces a basic red and rose wine under the label Le Jaja de Jau; two dessert wines, Grand Roussillon and Muscat de Rivesaltes, under Chateau de Jau; and Cotes du Roussillon Villages, which, under French wine law, must be red. Gewurztraminer:
Helfrich a great value One
of the best white wine values in our market is the 2005 Helfrich
Gewurztraminer Grand Cru. The
regular bottlings of the riesling, gewurztraminer, and pinot gris
have attractive fruit and floral aromas, substantial fruit flavors
and good acidity. They are well-made wines at very affordable prices.
But what truly stood out were the two grand cru bottlings of riesling
and gewurztraminer. The former is filled with peach and mineral
character, and has excellent texture and very good acidity in the
finish. It is worth searching for. Muscadet
a refreshing wine for summer In
the middle of summer, wine should be light and refreshing, like
the 2005 Domaine de la Louvetrie Le Fief du Breil Muscadet. Conversely, those younger than 40 have rarely if ever chosen a bottle of Muscadet over the explosively citrus-flavored, intensely aromatic, fuller-bodied, bracingly tart New Zealand sauvignon blancs like Cloudy Bay, Craggy Range, Spy Valley, Matua Valley and many more. Opici
Zinfandel Zin 91: Born in the U.S.A. On
Saturday, toast America's birthday with a glass of an American wine,
the 2006
Opici Zinfandel Zin 91. Wine
geeks know that zinfandel's DNA is the same as southern Italy's
primitivo grape and related to Croatia's crljenak kastelanski grape.
But after being brought to this country, zinfandel blossomed in
its California soil and climate, and the state's talented winemakers
have turned it into a world-class red wine. Washington
Riesling: Great wine for Fourth of July parties Fourth
of July celebrations call for an excellent American wine like the
2007 Mercer Estates Yakima Valley Riesling. Aging
sets apart sauvignon blancs Sauvignon blanc is one of the great grapes for making outstanding food-friendly wines like the 2007 Chateau de Sancerre blanc. Like many French wines whose identity is based on geography, Sancerre is a village and a wine appellation. Located in France's Loire Valley, the vineyards of Sancerre are planted with approximately 80 percent sauvignon blanc and 20 percent pinot noir grapes. Chateau de Sancerre has a long and colorful history. It was built in the 10th century, destroyed in 1621 by Henri II, rebuilt in 1874 and is currently owned by the Marnier-Lapostolle company, the family business also responsible for the liqueur Grand Marnier. Swiss
white wine is perfectly on time If you're looking for a new wine this summer to pour for your friends, try a glass of the 2007 Chateau d'Auvernier Neuchatel. In 1559, Blaise Junod constructed Chateau d'Auvernier on the shores of Lake Neuchatel in Switzerland. Pierre Chambrier bought the castle and surrounding vineyards in 1603, and four centuries later, Chateau d'Auvernier remains with Chambrier's descendants, the family of Thierry Grosjean. In early spring, Sophie Grosjean presented her wines during lunch at the Brass Rail in Hoboken. Spread across the table were Chateau d'Auvernier's white, rose and red wines. Swiss wines are a much less common sight than Swiss watches and clocks, even though the former are a fraction of the cost. And I couldn't recall the last time I sat down to a tasting of them. Blackberry-scented
Dolcetto ripe to pour The ideal Italian red wine for summer is a glass of the 2007 Vigne
Regali L'Ardi Dolcetto. Dolcetto
is the little brother of Piedmont's world-famous Nebbiolo grape,
the source of Barolo and Barbaresco wines. Dolcetto, which is both
the name of the grape and wine, offers drinkers a unique wine at
a very affordable price. Dolcetto, which means "little sweet
one," is Nebbiolo's counterpoint: It is easy to drink, needs
no aging and is the everyday wine of the Piedmont. No
arm-twisting necessary: Our critic gives top marks to the HBO-affiliated
line of wines The Vesuvio wine company, its own name a nod to Tony and Carmela Soprano's favorite restaurant, has created and continues to expand a line of Italian wines with the Sopranos name and iconic logo, thanks to a licensing partnership with HBO. A recent tasting of the pinot grigios, chiantis, and Sicilian blend showed these are serious wines, not gimmicks. The 2008 pinot grigio ($13.50), from the Grave zone of the Friuli region in Italy's northeastern corner, has delightful aromatics ranging from almond and floral to a hint of lemon, and it's a step above the 2007 pinot grigio from the northern province of Pavia. The 2008 pinot grigio brings to the palate a lime flavor with clean, crisp acidity, making it a perfect wine for a summer day at the Shore. It is easy to imagine Tony and Carmela drinking this tasty Friuli pinot grigio on the porch of Whitecaps, their would-be vacation home, or around pool at Soprano Manor. Affordable
everyday Beaujolais Two weeks ago, I had the opportunity to taste the 2006 Chateau de La Chaize Brouilly, one of the 10 Cru Beaujolais appellations. I looked forward to tasting it because in college, and for a few years afterwards, Chateau de La Chaize was my house wine; it was enjoyable and affordable at a $1.99 a bottle. Like many wines that we start out with, I stumbled upon Chateau de La Chaize without knowing it was a French national monument built in 1676 by the Versailles architect Jules Mansart. Its gardens were designed by Le Notre, the landscape architect of Versailles. Nor did I know it was the largest vineyard of all the Cru Beaujolais wines. I just knew that I liked its cherry-strawberry flavor and medium-light body. Pinot
noir awakens with ginger, berry notes Delightful and reasonably priced pinot noir is found in a glass of the 2006 Clos du Bois Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. Founded in 1974 by Frank Wood, Clos du Bois has grown from a small family winery to one of California's larger operations, now owned by Constellation Brands, the world's largest wine company. Along the way, it has added top-tier wines like its Bordeaux-styled red wine Marlstone, Burgundy-styled white wine Calcaire, and pure Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignon Flintwood, plus a middle-tier range of reserve wines without sacrificing the quality of its basic wines like the 2006 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. A riesling like 'a gift from the sun god' by John Foy/For The Star-Ledger - Tuesday May 05, 2009, 5:37 PM Domaine Weinbach is one of the world's great white wine estates. Located in Alsace, France, it dates to 1612 when the order of Capuchin monks built the estate and created the vineyards. In 1898, Theodore Faller and his brother, Jean-Baptiste, purchased the domain and 12 acres of vineyards. Theo, the son of Theodore, inherited it and, through a lifetime of work, garnered for it a reputation as one of Alsace's top estates. After his death in 1979, his wife, Colette, and two daughters, Laurence and Catherine, raised the level of Domaine Weinbach's wines to world-class status. In 1975, French wine authorities decreed the Schlossberg vineyard one of 51 Grand Cru Alsatian vineyards. Unlike some that seemed to have gained their status from political considerations, Schlossberg's historical record of producing great riesling grapes earned it the right to be the first Alsatian vineyard given the Grand Cru classification. Sparkling
rose celebrates summer May and June are filled with occasions calling for sparkling wines, and one of the best values is Australia's Jacob's Creek non-vintage rose. After December's holiday parties and New Year's Eve toasts, the next season for champagne and sparkling wines begins with Mother's Day and continues through the weddings, anniversaries and graduations culminating in late June. Champagne can be pricey -- and for a group function, a budget breaker -- but Jacob's Creek non-vintage rose offers the best of both worlds: a champagne-styled wine at an affordable price. Chilean'07
pinot noir has French savoir faire Double your pleasure with two 2007 pinot noirs from Chile's Veranda winery. Veranda winery is a joint venture of VC Family Estates, owned by the Chilean Ibanez family, and Boisset, a respected wine family from Burgundy, France. Veranda makes the range of Chilean wines: cabernet sauvignon, carmenere, syrah, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, and pinot noir. Yet its preference for pinot noir is revealed with its hiring of Pascal Marchand as its chief winemaker. Spend
tax refund on elegant California chardonnay One way to overcome the pain of Tax Day is with a glass of the 2006 Bouchaine Estate Chardonnay. While my relationship with the Internal Revenue Service and April 15th is longer than my acquaintance with this chardonnay, the latter is much more pleasant. Bouchaine's current history begins in 1981 when Gerret and Tatiana Copeland purchased the property from Beringer Brothers. The vineyard dates to 1899, and it's the oldest continuous winery in California's Carneros district. I
became acquainted with Bouchaine's chardonnay and pinot noir wines
in the mid-1980s. I was impressed with the fruit flavors and balance
and how well the wines went with food. For two decades, I kept them
on the wine lists of my former restaurants, Le Delice and Sonoma
Grill. Aussie
winery offers fruity Shiraz Preparing for the barbecue season should include stocking up on the good value 2005 Wyndham Estate Shiraz Bin 555. Last month, I visited the Australian winery and tasted Shiraz Bin 555 from the 1996 through 2006 vintages. Normally, lower-priced wines aren't made for aging, they're made for consumption immediately after bottling. However, Wyndham Estate is not your normal producer of moderate-priced wines -- it's the first winery to produce Australian shiraz and part of Australia's wine heritage. In 1830, George Wyndham planted shiraz at his newly purchased Dalwood property in the Hunter Valley, about two hours northwest of Sydney. In subsequent years, he bought additional land and by 1860 was making 11,000 gallons of Dalwood wines and exporting to India and to his former homeland, England. Pinot
noir elevated by choice grapes An elegant pinot noir awaits you in a glass of the 2006 Nicolas Potel Bourgogne Rouge Cuvee Gerard Potel. Pinot noir is the only red grape permitted to be planted in the Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits areas of Burgundy, France. Known as the Cote-d'Or (the golden slopes or hills), pinot noir reaches both its apex and nadir, its most heart-throbbing and most disappointing, a near ransom and a best value from the soil and winemakers of this compact region. The 2006 Cuvee Gerard Potel is personal, pleasing and persistent. It
is personal because Potel works directly with his grape growers
to control every aspect of the viticulture. He assumed his father's
negociant business when Gerard Potel died suddenly in 1997. Negociants
are buyers of grapes or fermented juice who complete the winemaking,
then bottle and market it. They are an ancient and key business
in Burgundy, producing some of the most sought-after wines in the
Cote-d'Or. Outer-rim
Bordeaux is on the money In great vintages like 2005, wine from small Bordeaux chateaux like Chateau Lagarosse makes smart buying. Going
off the beaten path of the classified chateaux and prestigious appellations
is the way to get great value for your money in the 2005 vintage,
as wines from minor appellations cannot command a primary location
price tag no matter the quality. Indulge
in white delight from Dry Creek Chenin blanc is a grape that rises to a refined pleasure when made like the 2007 Dry Creek Vineyard Clarksburg Chenin Blanc. In
1970, David Stare packed up his young family, put aside his Massachusetts
Institute of Technology engineering degree, and began studying enology
at the University of California at Davis. Two years later, he bought
55 acres of farmland in Dry Creek Valley with the dream of making
Loire Valley-styled white wines. Stare's Dry Creek Vineyard was
the first new winery in Dry Creek Valley since Prohibition. Cabernet
franc can stand on its own Cabernet franc is not a grape that many consumers are familiar with, but that will change with a glass of the 2006 Chateau de Vaugaudry Cuvee Prestige. Wine drinkers of Saint-Emilion recognize cabernet franc as one of the grapes blended into the wines from that world-renowned appellation. And while other Bordeaux wines also use cabernet franc in the blend, there are a few villages in France's Loire Valley that dedicate their wines to cabernet franc: Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saint-Nicholas de Bourgueil. Puglian
red is refined with Tuscan technique For more than 600 years, the noble house of Antinori has been producing wine in its native Tuscany. A few years ago, Marchesi Piero Antinori and his daughters extended their winemaking prowess southward to Italy's Puglia region. The heel of Italy's boot-shaped form, Puglia long has been a source of agricultural products and inexpensive hearty wines. For centuries, its rustic red wines were often used to fortify better-known and higher-priced red wines of Tuscany, Piedmont and Veneto when their wines suffered a poor vintage. Big,
bright Amarone won't overwhelm palate Winter's
bleakness yields to a cornucopia of fragrant fruit in a glass of
Masi Costasera Amarone 2005. Masi makes a range of wines, including five Amarones. A few weeks ago, Sandro Boscaini made his annual trip to our area to show his most recent vintage, 2005, of the Costasera Amarone. Along with this vintage, he poured the 2003 (both regular and riserva), as well as the 1997, 1995, 1990, and 1988 vintages New
winemaker keeps Chimney Rock fresh Chimney Rock was founded in 1980 when international businessman Sheldon "Hack" Wilson purchased a 185-acre golf course in Napa Valley. Located in the highly regarded Stags Leap District, Wilson replaced nine holes of sand traps and fairways with 75 acres of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. It was a good foursome for wine lovers. In
1984, the talented winemaker Philip Togni produced Chimney Rock's
first wines. He continued at Chimney Rock until 1987, when winemaker
Doug Fletcher arrived from neighboring Steltzner winery. Its newest
winemaker, Elizabeth Vianna, took the mantel from Fletcher in 2005.
Bordeaux
pours at a bargain price The best bargain of 2009 might be the wine I enjoyed two weeks ago: Chateau Le Cadarsac, 2005. Wine collectors and connoisseurs know two things about Bordeaux's 2005 vintage: extraordinary quality and extraordinary prices. This is a vintage that will rival the greatest years since World War II: 2000, 1990, 1982, 1961, 1959 and 1945. Its prices
are also just as stunning: $1,000 or more per bottle for First-Growth
Bordeaux like Chateaux Lafite-Rothschild and Margaux, and $150 to
$300 a bottle for second-growth Bordeaux like Chateaux Palmer, Pichon-Lalande
and Ducru-Beaucaillou. And even further down the classification
ladder prices are higher than ever. In this environment, it was
a delightful surprise to find the 2005 Chateau Le Cadarsac. Fruity
port pairs with dinner or dessert John Foy The roots of the House of Croft date to 1588 when Henry Thompson of York, England, began trading Port wine. Over centuries, the Thompsons and Crofts intermarried six times, and in 1736 John Croft became a partner in the wine company Thompson, Tilden & Croft. The Crofts exited the Port business in 1911; today, Croft is owned by the outstanding Port companies Fonseca and Taylor Fladgate. Last June, Natasha Bridge, part of the Croft winemaking team, presented the lineup of Croft Port wines. She studied at America's premier wine school, the University of California at Davis, and worked in the blending rooms of Fonseca and Taylor Fladgate, where her father was the chairman. Chilean
Merlot blends best of both worlds John Foy Starting the new year with a delicious red wine at a bargain price is easy when you pour a glass of 2007 Casa Lapostolle, Merlot, Rapel Valley. Casa Lapostolle was founded in 1994 by a partnership of the Chilean Rabat family and Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle -- the great-granddaughter of Alexandre Marnier Lapostolle creator of the French liqueur, Grand Marnier -- and her husband, Cyril de Bournet. I
met Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle in the 1990s when she presented
her Chilean wines at my former restaurant, Sonoma Grill. The quality
of her new wines was as impressive as those from her other winery,
the well-known Chateau de Sancerre in Loire Valley. Henriot
champagne sure to lift holiday spirits The holiday season sparkles brighter with a glass of Henriot Souverain brut nonvintage champagne. Henriot (pronounced ahn-Re-oh) was founded in 1808 by Apolline Henriot, the widow of Nicholas Simon Henriot. It remains family-owned and directed by the seventh generation, Stanislas Henriot, who succeeded his father, Joseph, in 1999. Both were in New York earlier this year where they presented a tour de force of Henriot champagne. Beginning with their Souverain brut nonvintage, they proceed with a procession of outstanding vintage champagnes from 1996, 1995, 1990, 1976, 1964 and 1959, all made under the direction of Joseph Henriot. Quality was in every glass. Port
from Oporto warms the soul A September visit to the city of Oporto brought me to Sandeman's winery and an enjoyable and informative time with George Sandeman, the seventh generation of this internationally renowned family-directed Port house. Centuries-old
German winery produces crisp, fruity riesling In the wine cosmos, one of the longest lasting and brightest stars is Schloss Vollrads, a fixture in Germany's renowned Rheingau region. A document dated November 18, 1218 -- 790 years ago yesterday -- states that wines from Schloss Vollrads were sold to the Saint Victor monastery in Mainz. Beginning
in 1330, the Greiffenclaus family would reside at Schloss Vollrads
producing wines for 667 years, ending with the death of Erwine count
Matuschka-Greiffenclaus in 1997. In August, I visited Schloss Vollrads
with its beautiful gardens and magnificent ancient castle and tasted
its wines with the current wine director, Rowald Hepp. Elevate your next dinner party with Provenance Vineyards by John Foy/For the Star-Ledger - Wednesday November 5, 2008 Elevate your next dinner party with the elegant 2005, Provenance Vineyards, Rutherford, Cabernet Sauvignon. While Provenance is a recent winery, it is no Johnny-come-lately to Napa Valley with Tom Rinaldi at the helm. Winemaker and general manager, Tom Rinaldi brought to Provenance twenty-two years of experience as the winemaker and founder of Napa’s highly-acclaimed Duckhorn winery. Rinaldi produced his first Provenance, Rutherford, cabernet sauvignon in 1999. Rutherford, considered by many the best area in Napa for cabernet sauvignon, has a wine history dating to 1838 when George Yount planted vines. Later, Yount gifted part of the vineyards as a wedding present to Thomas Rutherford; eventually the vineyards were sold to French immigrant Georges de Latour, who would make the famous Rutherford, cabernet sauvignon, Georges de Latour, Private Reserve. Connoisseurs of cabernet sauvignon from the Rutherford district of Napa Valley claim there is a distinct taste known as Rutherford Dust. This component is a dry, cocoa powder-like texture in the back of the mouth. More than 75-percent of the grapes for Rinaldi’s 2005, Provenance, Rutherford, cabernet sauvignon come from three Rutherford vineyards. The wine is darkish-red colored; it is aged for 18 months in a mix of new and used French and American oak barrels. With a few swirls of your glass, appealing blackberry, black tea, and milk chocolate-like aromas rise upward. The 2005, Provenance, Rutherford, cabernet sauvignon has Napa Valley’s modern velvety texture and a medley of black cherry, blackberry, cappuccino, and semi-sweet chocolate flavors balanced with mellow tannins. The wine reflects Rinaldi’s winemaking skills honed in prior decades where balance and elegance were valued over today’s vogue of ebony-ish, marmalade-flavored, oak-influenced Rutherford and Napa wines. Pour the 2005, Provenance, Rutherford, cabernet sauvignon with any roasted beef, lamb, or duck dish and watch your guests smile. And if you have any remaining at the end of meal remember that it goes very well with chocolate cake, too. The 2005, Provenance, Rutherford, cabernet sauvignon is distributed by Allied Beverage Group in Carlstadt. It retails for approximately $45 and is also available in half-bottles for approximately $25. Tedeschi, Amarone Classico will warm you as well as your favorite sweater. by John Foy/For the Star-Ledger - Wednesday October 22, 2008 Fall’s nip is in the air and a glass of the 2004, Tedeschi, Amarone Classico will warm you as well as your favorite sweater. Since 1824, Tedeschi has been a family-run winery in Italy’s Veneto region. Founded by Nicolo Tedeschi, today’s fifth generation, winemaker Riccardo, and his sisters, Antonietta and Sabrina, are directing the enterprise. I visited Tedeschi at the beginning of this decade. Not only was I impressed with Riccardo Tedeschi’s winemaking talent and the family’s dedication to its ancestral vineyards; but equally enlightening was a seminar by Sabrina, who completed a two year research project at the San Michele All’Adige University on the value of antioxidants in wine. Her research showed that Corvina, one of the grapes of Amarone, has the riches resveratrol content of all grapes. Resveratrol is the polyphenol found in grape skins that has cardioprotective effects. Earlier this year, I tasted the range of Tedeschi wines with Riccardo Tedeschi, and a few weeks ago the newest arrival in our market, the 2004, Amarone Classico. Riccardo Tedeschi makes his 2004, Amarone Classico from a blend of 30-percent each Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella, and 10-percent Molinara, all indigenous grapes of the Valpolicella area. Unlike nearly all other red wines, the grapes for Amarone are harvested and placed on straw mats or plastic trays for a three to four month drying process, called appassimento. Once they reach the proper semi-dried state, the grapes are pressed and fermentation begins in stainless steel tanks. The wine is than transferred to large Slavonia oak casks where it ages two years and further refined in bottle for six months. The 2004, Tedeschi, Amarone Classico has a brilliant black cherry color with bursts of prune and cherry-like aromas. It is expansive and elegant on the palate with wonderful fruit flavors and a hint of cinnamon, and supported with firm tannins and crisp acidity. During the drying process the grapes lose about 30-percent of their weight, concentrating the sugar content which converts into alcohol during fermentation yielding a wine of 15-percent alcohol. While California Zinfandels have this level or higher alcohol, they often lack Amarone’s acidity, making them feel heavier on the palate. The excellent balance of the Tedeschi, 2004, Amarone Classico makes it an ideal fall and winter dining partner with roasted meats, stews, and root vegetable casseroles. And it is much more enjoyable than visiting your cardiologist. The 2004,
Tedeschi, Amarone Classico is distributed by Lauber Imports in Somerville.
It retails for approximately $45. Cherry
red chianti belongs at the table In 1964, Riccardo Falchini purchased Casale, an ancient estate and former friary, located just outside the walls of San Gimignano, the charming Tuscan town known for its medieval towers. Falchini planted his first vineyards in 1968; eight years later, a new winery was erected. Aided by Giacomo Tachis, Italy's famous winemaker of Sassicaia, Tignanello, and Solaia, Falchini developed a range of Tuscan wines. Change
of scenery benefits winemaker One of my most astonishing moments in the wine world was the recent tasting of J Vineyards wines, including the 2006 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. It wasn't astonishing because the pinot noir came from Russian River Valley; I've enjoyed many pinot noirs from this excellent appellation in Sonoma County. And it wasn't because it came from J Vineyards; I've enjoyed its sparkling wine for years. I was astonished because the wine was made by George Bursick. Prior
to accepting Judy Jordan's offer to be the winemaker at J Vineyards,
Bursick was the winemaker for 22 years at Ferrari-Carano. And for
22 years, I disliked those wines to the point that I never put them
on the wine lists at my restaurants. Kosher
wines shed syrupy image If you want to discover why the words "quality" and "kosher wines" fit together, try a glass of Ella Valley's EverRed, 2004. Rosh Hashanah begins at the end of September and Sukkoth in mid-October. Kosher wines occupy a place at the table during these religious days on the Jewish calendar. Kosher
wines still suffer from the image of Concord grapes fermented into
sweet wines like Manischewitz. Modern kosher wines are a world away
from that grape and style. Fontanafredda Barolo La Rosa 2000 Founded in 1878, Fontanafredda is the largest and one of the oldest Barolo estates. In the 1970s producers began making single-vineyard wines like Fontanafredda's Vigna La Rosa. I tasted nine vintages of Fontanafredda's Barolo, Vigna La Rosa from 1974 to 2001. Retrospective tastings like the 1974 to 2001 Vigna La Rosa allow you to see the aging potential of the single-vineyard wine and any changes made by the winemaker. Say
hello to old an friend, Pio Cesare, one more time With all the over-the-top chardonnays on the market, it is refreshing to get reacquainted with an old friend like Pio Cesare's Cortese di Gavi, 2007. A generation ago, Gavi was the white wine of sophisticated palates. Gavi (the wine) is named for the small town, Gavi, where it originates. Located in Italy's Piedmont region, Gavi is a recent creation. The Cortese grape was originally used in local sparkling wines; after World War II, a still white wine was produced from it and named Gavi; fame and fortune followed. However,
fashion and fusion have not Bearboat
red is well crafted In
the mid-1990s, I was introduced to Bearboat with its back label
written in Russian. Corporate structures are not normally given
to humor, but Bearboat pinot noir was from a California winery with
a punster attitude. Spanish
white is cool summer refresher Excellent wineries from hot regions produce refreshing wines for consumers like Rincon de Pedraza's El Hada Verdejo-Viura 2007. Spain
is a summer destination for northern Europeans because of its warm
climate. This weather has culinary and wine attractions, too. Fish
and vegetables are favored; and young, fresh, crisp wines preferred.
It was on a sultry day like that when I tasted the 2007 El Hada
Verdejo-Viura. Swiss
business prowess pays off nicely You'll always be pleased when stocking the wine cellar or cooler with an excellent red wine like Chateau Faugeres, St. Emilion, Grand Cru, 2005. After being owned by the Guisez family from 1823, Chateau Faugeres was purchased in 2005 by the Swiss entrepreneur, Silvio Denz. Beginning in the financial markets, Denz went on to create Switzerland's largest chain of perfume stores before selling it in 2000. His new vision is wineries and with a budding portfolio of four spread across Tuscany, Costa Brava and Bordeaux, Denz's business talents are benefiting wine consumers. 'Naked'
rose reveals natural qualities of pinot noir Nestled on a slope in Yountville, Domaine Chandon produced first-rate sparkling wines that I always enjoyed at its excellent restaurant, Etoile. A showcase for stylish cooking, it also taught consumers that California could be a source of delicious champagne-styled wines. Under
the Tuscan sun, Antinori nurtures Solaia A memorable Father's Day gift is a bottle of Antinori's extraordinary 2004 Solaia. Antinori is one of the most regal names in the wine world. The family-owned wine company is headed by the noble and notable Marchese Piero Antinori, supported by what I call his A Team: daughters Albiera, Allegra and Alessia. Six centuries ago, Giovanni di Piero Antinori was a member of the "Arte Fiorentina dei Vinattieri" or "Vinter's Guild"; 26 generations of Antinoris have continued producing wines from their Tuscan vineyards since that inscription in 1385. In
the 1970s, this dedication reached a new height when Piero Antinori
brought Tuscany into the modern winemaking age with the creation
of Solaia and its sister wine, Tignanello. Solaia has been one of
my favorite wines since my first glass of it in the early 1980s.
My only Solaia regret is I didn't start collecting it until a decade
later. Take
in the summer breezes with Clos du Val pinot noir Soothing red wines are ideal for warm weather menus, and Clos du Val Carneros pinot noir 2006 is just what the sun god ordered for your summer table. I met Bernard Portet, co-founder of Clos du Val, in the 1970s. He started the winery in the yet-to-be-known Stags Leap district of Napa Valley. It was a time when vineyards and orchards were intermingled and owned by farmers and individuals who came from winemaking families. Tourism and Architectural Digest wineries had not sprouted. Give
Mom a sparkling treat with Bortolomiol Prosecco A sparkling wine for Mother's Day from a mother and her daughters is apropos when it is Bortolomiol Prosecco Prior Brut, nonvintage. Natives of Valdobbiadene, an important wine village in Italy's Veneto region, the Bortolomiol family has been in the wine business for two centuries. Its current generation is led by Ottavia Bortolomiol and her four daughters, Giuliana, Luisa, Maria Elena and Elvira. Ottavia Bortolomiol's deceased husband, Giuliano Bortolomiol, set the family on its present course. After World War II, he began the quest of changing Prosecco from a naturally sweet, fizzy wine into a dry, sparkling one. Prosecco is a white grape that grows best in the Veneto region, and the choicest grapes come from the hillside vineyards around the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. Tasty
Australian riesling will improve with age Your trip to Australia can be as pleasing and quick as pouring a glass of Jacob's Creek 2005 Steingarten Riesling. My first step on Australian soil was only an hour away from my Hoboken apartment. I traveled to New York City's Upper East Side and was welcomed by John Olsen, the Australian consul general, in his official residence, which is legally recognized as Australian territory. No jet lag for me. California
pinot noir fulfills dream born in Burgundy Spring is a time of renewal; recently, I came across a delightful old friend in a bottle of pinot noir: Calera Mt. Harlan Cuvee 2006. Decades before "Sideways" and its ode to pinot noir, Josh Jensen tilled the limestone of California's Mt. Harlan for his vision of pinot noir. Tre
is the magic number for the Kronenberg blend Wine blending is an art that reaches a high level in the 2005, Brancaia, Tre. Earlier
this year, I tasted with Martin Kronenberg the range of wines made
by his wife, Barbara Kronenberg-Widmer, from Widmer's family estates
in Tuscany. Stunning
Vouvrays from Loire Valley Vouvray
is made in many styles, and tasting one of the best stylists is
a pleasure with a glass of Philippe Brisebarre's 2005 Vouvray Cuvee
Amedee. |
© John Foy - The Wine Odyssey 2008
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