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Sparkling wines from Italy, Spain offer bubbles at a bargain
Choose these sparkling wines for Saturday night’s festivities, and you’ll be cheering for your wallet as well as the New Year. Mumm Napa Brut Prestige non-vintage sparkling wine brings Napa Valley’s ripe fruit flavors to the party. This sparkler is a blend of the three traditional Champagne grapes, pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier, and aged for 21 months. It’s more fruit-filled and less dry than a typical brut Champagne. Serve a glass as your guests arrive; its moderate $20 price tag encourages gracious refills throughout the evening. If you’re looking for good value wines or want to stretch your wine budget, go directly to Segura Viudas, owned by the Ferrer wine family (think Spain’s Freixenet and Gloria Ferrer winery in Sonoma, Calif.). Segura Viudas produces what might be the best sparkling wine bargain: Aria Pinot Noir. It is an eye-catching red with wonderful raspberry and cherry aromas and a delicious cornucopia of red fruit flavors. An off-dry finish and $11 ticket makes this a perfect party wine.
Ring in the new year with these Prestige Cuvee Champagnes
New Year’s Eve dinner is the moment for enjoying the best wines, and at the pinnacle are Prestige Cuvee Champagnes. The term Prestige Cuvee Champagne applies to the finest wine from a Champagne house. Typically the wine is aged six to eight years in the producer’s cellar, made only from the best chardonnay or pinot noir grapes, and only in excellent vintages. Capturing Prestige Cuvee Champagne’s complex aromas and flavors requires serving it in a white wine glass. These Champagnes usually have unique names, and are packaged in artistically-designed bottles and elaborate boxes, making them special holiday gifts. Two weeks ago, I tasted an array of Prestige Cuvee Champagnes at the holiday luncheon of the New York-based Wine Media Guild. Here are my favorites. Taittinger 2000 Comtes de Champagne: Taittinger is a great Champagne house, and its Comtes de Champagne is aged from eight to 10 years. Made only from chardonnay(called blanc de blancs in the Champagne lexicon), its rich fruit flavor and slightly nutty taste is magnetic. Substantial acidity guarantees a 20-to 30-year life for the 2000 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne. Approximately $130.
Celebrate with four Italian and Spanish reds under $25
In my continuing search for reasonably-priced wines for holiday dinner parties or meals out at favorite BYOBs, this week I’m seeing red. Renato Ratti is a prestigious wine family in Italy’s Piedmont region who offers two delicious red wines. Begin with the stylish 2010 Barbera Torriglione from Ratti’s vineyard in La Morra. It’s pure barbera fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged in French oak barrels. Unlike some modern barberas, the oak influence is limited, allowing the flavorful fruit to be front and center. Perfumed and savory, the 2010 Ratti Barbera Torriglione is perfect with a first course of salami, sopresatta and roasted peppers, or pasta with a meat ragu. Nebbiolo is the grape of Barolo and Barbaresco. And as much as I adore these wines, they are expensive. But with the 2009 Nebbiolo Ochetti, Ratti cuts the cost while preserving the grape’s pleasure by harvesting the nebbiolo from mature vines in Roero, a district outside the renowned Barolo and Barbaresco zones.
Inexpensive white wines for holiday dinners
I recently offered good-value sparkling, white and red wines at $13 or less for your holiday parties. This week, I have a selection of inexpensive white wines for dinners at home or at your favorite BYOB. The Royal Tokaji wine company specializes in the great Hungarian Tokaji dessert wines, but it also produces a delicious dry white wine from the furmint grape, which is the primary grape for its sweet wines. Ben Howkins, an English wine writer and partner in the Royal Tokaji wine company, presented the 2009 Furmint as the “welcoming wine” at a recent tasting. Its floral and fruit aromas are enchanting and the honey, pear and peach flavors wonderful. It has the allure of a dessert wine without the sweetness. Like Howkins, you can surprise your guests by pouring this as an aperitif, or follow my lead in enjoying it with sautéed skate and cauliflower. It will also be a good partner to scallops, crab meat, roasted veal, and at $16, your wallet.
Reflections on Chappellet cabernet sauvignon
I became acquainted with the Chappellet family and its wines in the mid-1970s and immediately liked both. In 1967, Donn and Molly Chappellet sold their coffee vending machine business and moved from Los Angeles to Pritchard Hill on the eastern slopes of Napa Valley, 1,200 feet above the valley floor. Their winery was only the second to be built in Napa since the end of Prohibition, and the first on Pritchard Hill. I traveled up the steep road to Chappellet’s breathtaking view of the valley. Around their winery, Molly Chappellet tended herb, vegetable and flower gardens from which she blossomed as an author of books about landscape design. Donn Chappellet told me he wanted to create a Chateau Latour-styled wine in Napa Valley. And I thought he did. Like that great Bordeaux wine, the Chappellet cabernet sauvignons of the 1970s and 1980s had a mineral and gravel taste behind the blackberry-flavored fruit. Both wines required years of aging to reveal the complex aromas and flavors built on a steely backbone of tannins. It’s been more than a decade, but I can still taste the 1978’s richness and balance that poured from my last bottle. Fortunately, I still have a bottle of the delicious 1986.
Party on the cheap with good-value wines
Budgeting for holiday parties is made easy with good- value wines from these highly-regarded family-owned companies. Pouring a Spanish Cava like the nonvintage Anna de Codorniu rose’ sparkling wine is an ideal start to the party. Named for the 17th-century matriarch of Codorniu, it’s a blend of 70 percent pinot noir and 30 percent chardonnay made in the Champagne method. Eye-pleasing pink bubbles gently release tasty cherry-flavored fruit, and its slightly off-dry finish is a perfect crowd pleaser. At $13, it’s a quarter of the price of any rose’ Champagne. The Anna de Codorniu rose’ sparkling wine is distributed by Allied Beverage Group in Carlstadt. Banfi is another top-notch, family-owned wine company. It makes great wines at its Brunello di Montalcino property and its Piedmont estate. Prosecco is always fashionable, and the sparkling Maschio Prosecco Brut is a dry sparkling white wine with a pear and unsalted cashew taste. Banfi is the marketing agent for the Maschio Prosseco Brut and at its $13 price, you can put the party in high-gear. It’s distributed by Fedway Associates in Kearny. The Torres family is one of the most respected in the wine world. Renowned for its Spanish wines, the family has been plowing Chilean soil since 1979. From there, Torres sends well-made wines from organic vineyards at party making prices. A few months ago, I tasted these delightful wines with Miguel Torres Maczassek. The 2010 Torres Santa Digna Sauvignon Blanc’s lemongrass aroma, fresh citrus flavor and long finish is a perfect mate for sushi rolls and crab cakes. It’s unadulterated sauvignon blanc and a steal at $11.
Balanced wines for Thanksgiving
Some wine collectors like to pour their biggest, boldest, most alcohol-laden cabernet sauvignon, syrah, or Meritage wines on Thanksgiving. I always think that’s overkill for turkey, stuffing and the traditional side dishes. Better to have more delicate wines, especially when there is an array of palates at the table, and I have two suggestions that will not overwhelm the food and have moderate alcohol content. The 2010 Wilson Daniels Pinot Noir from California’s Central Coast appellation is an ideal red wine for your Thanksgiving Day table. Wilson Daniels is a prestigious wine importer and distributor founded in 1978 by Jack Daniels and the late Win Wilson. During the last 18 months, a new management team has put in place a series of changes, one of which is marketing its own wine under the Wilson Daniels label. The wine bears a Central Coast appellation, which runs from San Francisco to Santa Barbara, and is made from Santa Maria Valley vineyard grapes.
Le Reve bubbles over with complex fruit flavor
at Domaine Carneros, Jersey girl Eileen Crane is living a dream as one of the foremost sparkling winemakers in America. A former Bergen County resident, Crane was introduced to the hospitality industry as a 17-year old cashier at the Howard Johnson restaurant on Route 17 in Paramus. Crane earned bachelor and master degrees in nutrition and taught the subject at the University of Connecticut. She studied at the Culinary Institute of America, and attended enology classes at the University of California at Davis. Crane eventually launched her winemaking career as an assistant winemaker at Domaine Chandon, the Napa Valley sparkling winery owned by Moet & Chandon Champagne. In 1984, she became winemaker of the new Spanish-owned Gloria Ferrer winery in Sonoma’s Carneros region. Crane became permanently linked to Carneros in 1987, when Claude Taittinger, head of the great Taittinger Champagne house, hired Crane to create a sparkling wine in that style at the new Domaine Carneros winery. His dream was to create a California sparkling wine that paralleled Taittinger’s renowned Blanc de Blancs Champagne.
Give thanks for this stellar Silver Oak
Holiday dinners are the time to bring to the table outstanding wines like the 2007 Silver Oak Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignon. In 1972, Denver oilman Raymond Duncan and Napa Valley winemaker Justin Meyer founded Silver Oak Cellars. From the outset, they had the unconventional idea of creating two wineries, one in Sonoma’s Alexander Valley, the other in Napa, each dedicated to producing a single cabernet sauvignon wine. The first Silver Oak Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignon was made from purchased grapes in 1972. That same year, Duncan purchased a dairy farm in Napa Valley’s Oakville and began planting vineyards, producing the initial Silver Oak Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon in 1979. From inception, both wines have been made from estate-grown and purchased grapes. The Duncan-Meyer team consistently produced outstanding wines that were sought after by the growing cadre of California wine collectors. One could reasonably credit Silver Oak with being the first California cult wine and creating the paradigm for a winery producing only a single wine for its fame.
German pinot noirs on upswing
Location is just as important in winemaking as in real estate, and Bernhard Huber has some of the best vineyard areas in Germany for pinot noir. Last month, I traveled across the Baden and Pfalz regions of Germany tasting pinot noirs, called Spatburgunder in German. I discovered flavorful, well-made spatburgunders throughout these two southernmost areas of Germany. It was a striking difference from the thin, tart pinot noirs that German wineries offered only a short time ago. During my trip, the best spatburgunders came from Huber’s winery in the Malterdingen area of Baden. Malterdingen’s history of pinot noir dates to 1285, when Cistercian monks found the soil and hillsides there similar to France’s Burgundy region and began cultivating pinot noir. The reputation the monks gained for the high quality of their wine was such that Malterdingen became a synonym for spatburgunder.
Chablis producer moves away from natural corks
The French are sticklers for natural corks, but Chablis producer Michel Laroche uses only screws caps for his wines marketed to the American consumer, because time has shown it’s the best method for aging them. In 2005, Laroche presented seven Chablis wines from the excellent 2002 vintage to a group of wine writers, including me. The wines ranged from the basic Chablis appellation to Premier and Grand Crus, and each was bottled under two formats: natural cork and screw caps. Laroche wanted us to taste the wines blind so we were kept outside the room while the waiters poured the wines in two rows of seven glasses. After we took our seats, Laroche asked us to note on the tasting sheet which glasses we believed came from the natural cork wines, and which from the screw caps. All the wines were in very good condition, but the screw cap wines had fresher fruit aromas and flavors with crisper acidity. Of the seven wines, only the two glasses containing a Grand Cru Chablis left me wondering. Below is an article from the Sept 2011 Beverage Dynamics Rioja: Combining the Old and the New The distance from Madrid to Logrono, the principal town in La Rioja is approximately five hours by car and centuries in wine time. Monastery documents date the existence of wine in La Rioja in 873; however, we know La Rijoa’s unwritten wine history extends to the Phoenicians who brought their winemaking skills to the Iberian Peninsula. Over the course of centuries, La Rioja became the most prestigious wine region in Spain. It was the wine source for French consumers when Bordeaux’s vineyards were devastated by Phylloxera in the 19th century. Eclipsed by the New World wine styles of the late 20th century from neighboring Ribera del Duero and Priorat, it is responding in the 21st century with modern wine styles while retaining its classic Rioja wines. Rioja’s modern foundation was laid by a most traditional winery and man, Marquis de Murrieta. In 1822, Francisco Ramon de Murrieta was born in Peru. Two years later, his family moved to England when the Peruvians overthrew the Spanish colonialist. In 1844, after service in the Spanish army, Murrieta moved to Logrono and began a life dedicated to making outstanding wine. Observing the inferior quality of Rioja wines compared to the French wines he experienced in London, Murrieta went to Bordeaux to learn winemaking in 1848. He returned four years later, and began producing wines that earned him international awards, commercial success and the title Marques de Murrieta from Queen Isabel II. In 1878, he purchased the Ygay estate.
Ripe fruit shines through in 2009 Bourgogne Rouge
Burgundy’s basic red wine is Bourgogne Rouge, and when it comes from a notable winey such as Domaine A.F.Gros, it’s an affordable way to enjoy a good vintage like 2009. Over generations, French inheritance law forced the Gros family to divide its vineyards, resulting in parcels as small as an acre and spawning numerous labels. There is Domaine Michel Gros, Domaine Gros Frere & Soeur, Domaine Anne Gros, and Domaine A.F. Gros. The average consumer would need a flow chart to understand it. Domaine A.F.Gros is owned by Anne Francoise Gros, who inherited vineyards from her parents, Jean and Jeanine Gros, along with her brothers. Anne Françoise married Francois Parent, a winemaker from another respected Burgundy wine family, and he makes the Domaine A.F.Gros and Domaine Parent wines.
Carignano grape makes a balanced red
A good value wine is always welcome, especially when it also introduces you to an uncommon grape and region like carignano from Sardinia. After Sicily, Sardinia is the second-largest island in the Mediterranean. Its coastline has some of Europe’s most beautiful and expensive resorts, while it rugged interior is dotted with ancient villages, farms and vineyards. Santadi winery began as a cooperative in 1960. It made and sold bulk wine until 1980, when Giacomo Tachis, the renowned winemaker of Sassicaia began revamping Santadi’s entire approach to viticulture and winemaking. Tachis remains a consultant to Santadi and its full-time winemaker, Davide Pera. Sardinia’s most well-known grape is cannonau, yet it is still fairly obscure to most wine consumers. In the right hands, it becomes a medium-bodied wine. But another Sardinian red wine grape I like is carignano. In 2008, Santadi made a very pleasing carignano wine labeled Grotta Rossa.
Celebrate the Jewish New Year with modern wines from Italy and Israel
Jews who came of age before the 1980s associate holidays with super-sweet wines made from the Concord grape, typically from market leader Manischewitz. But in the last 30 years, modern-styled kosher wines from Israel, California and major wine regions of Europe have found a place at the Jewish holiday table. Two weeks ago, I tasted a selection of contemporary kosher wines, and none could better illustrate the change than the non-vintage Borgo Reale Prosecco ($20), a sparking wine made from the Prosecco grape of northern Italy. Its mild fruit and sage-like aroma is a pleasant introduction to the apple flavor and off-dry finish. It’s a delightful starter for a Rosh Hashanah dinner. The 2009 Dalton Chardonnay ($16) is from Israel’s Upper Galilee. Founded in 1995 by the Haruni family, immigrants from England, Dalton is now lead by Israeli-born and Australian-trained winemaker Naama Sorkin. Her chardonnay is unoaked, delightfully fruit-scented and flavored with a modest 12.5 percent alcohol and long, dry finish. Enjoy it with a vegetable course.
Antica cabernet sauvignon benefits from Antinori's patience
If six centuries in the wine business has taught the Antinori family anything, it’s patience. A tasting of six vintages of Antica’s cabernet sauvignon is a testament to that. Piero Antinori is the 26th generation in the family wine business. He is renowned for creating the Super Tuscan wines Tignanello and Solaia (one of my favorites), and modernizing Tuscan viticulture and winemaking in the 1970s. But it took Antinori two decades to find his way on Napa’s Atlas Peak. In 1986, he formed a partnership with Bollinger Champagne and Whitbread, a British beverage company. They bought land, planted sangiovese, (the primary red grape of Tuscany) and cabernet sauvignon with the goal of making a California wine that resembled Antinori’s Tuscan wines. It didn’t work. Antinori bought out his partners, and in 1993 leased the vineyards to the international wine conglomerate Allied Domecq. In 2003, Antinori reclaimed control of the 570-acre vineyard.
Gewurztraminer is the most complex dry white wine
Gewurztraminer is the most complex white wine and has long aging potential, both qualities apparent in the 2010 J.Hofstatter Gewurztraminer Kolbenhof vineyard. In 1907, Joseph Hofstatter founded his winery in Italy’s Alto Adige region, also known as the South Tyrol, which borders Austria. The primary language is German, as this region was part of Austria until ceded to Italy at the end of World War I. Paolo Foradori married into the Hofstatter family in 1959, bringing prime vineyards to a recognized estate. Recently, his son Martin presented eight vintages of J.Hofstatter Gewurztraminer Kolbenhof dating from 1992 to 2009. It was an impressive retrospective, and my favorites were the 2005 and 2006.
Chilean whites thrive under the Rothschild imprimatur
By John Foy - The Star-Ledger You get a Rothschild’s commitment to excellence at a commoner’s price with the 2010 Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay wines. Most wine consumers think Chile is new to the wine world, but its wine history dates to the 16th-century. Los Vascos’ history can be traced to the Echenique family, who planted vineyards in the Colchagua Valley around 1750. In 1988, Les Domaines Barons de Rothschild, the umbrella group of wineries owned by Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, purchased Los Vascos, from the Eyzaguirre-Echenique family. Gilbert Rokvam, the technical director at Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, was sent to Los Vascos to oversee the restructuring of the winery and begin a replanting program for the 525-acre vineyard. Today, Los Vascos is guided by Chilean winemaker Marcelo Gallardo. He made the Los Vascos 2010 sauvignon blanc from purchased grapes of Casablanca, Colchagua and Leyda valley vineyards.
Exploring grapes from southwestern France
By John Foy - The Star-Ledger Enjoy your Labor Day party with these tasty, inexpensive wines from southwestern France made from unique grapes. Rose’ is summer’s color and the 2010 Chateau Bellevue La Foret Rose’ has the bright crimson-orange glow of a pure sunset. Southwestern France has many indigenousness grapes including negrette, which comprises 70 percent of La Foret Rose’, with 20 percent gamay and 10 percent syrah in the balance. Negrette is a black grape brought from Cyprus to this area of France in the 12th century by the Knights of the Order of St. Jean of Jerusalem returning from the Crusades. The 2010 Chateau Bellevue La Foret Rose’ offers an appealing ripe red fruit aroma and a bigger body than normally found in rose’. It’s packed with cherry and black cherry flavors, good acidity and a pleasing finish. While the wine is ideal for your Labor Day party, you’ll also want to have it when the sunsets get shorter and barbecued chicken gives way to roasted birds.
In By JohnFoy - The Star-Ledger, Wednesday, August 17, 2011 Final part in a three-part series Spain’s Ribera del Duero region has been producing wines for more than 2,000 years, since the area was settled by Romans. Most wines from this hot, hilly land adjacent to the Duero River are categorized according to the appellation’s traditional system: joven wines are mere months old, crianza and reserva wines have been aged two and three years respectively, and gran reserva wines are 5 years old, bottled only during exceptional harvests. But the thoroughly New World-styled wines of Bodegas Aalto and Pingus dismiss these classifications entirely. “Traditions come from a need or a necessity,” says Peter Sisseck, winemaker and owner of Dominio de Pingus- perhaps the smallest winery in Ribera del Duero, which produces its most expensive wine. “Today the classification system is not necessary to get the best wines”. Sisseck is Danish and his family owns a few Bordeaux chateaux. In 1993, he came to Ribera del Duero to manage Hacienda Monasterio. Seeing the old vines in various parts of the region, Sisseck decided in 1995 to make his own wine and gave it his childhood nickname, Pingus. He brought his first vintage, the 1996, to Bordeaux for that region’s annual spring tasting, and wine critic Robert Parker’s effusive praise immediately established Pingus.
Two Spanish reds to delight, one to puzzle over
Second in a three-part series on Ribera del Duero In 1982, Spain created the Ribera del Duero appellation with only eight wineries. An area formerly dominated by wine cooperatives, the region exploded in new wineries, including the excellent Vina Sastre. In 1992, Rafael Sastre and his two sons, Pedro and Jesus, decided to stop just selling their grapes and begin making commercial wines. They had the advantage of owning vineyards with vines ranging up to 80 years old, allowing Vina Sastre to offer consumers wines with greater complexity than those from many of the region’s new wineries. A decade later, Jesus assumed responsibility for the winery when Pedro died in a car accident. Jesus Sastre has embraced organic and biodynamic viticulture. He avoids insecticides and other chemicals, and employs natural winemaking methods, from starting fermentation with the natural yeast on the grape’s skin to rejecting filtration for the wine. But natural doesn’t mean antiquated; Sastre has modern stainless-steel temperature-controlled fermentation tanks, new oak barrels, and up-to-date winemaking techniques. During my visit, I tasted all the Vina Sastre wines, and back home, I retasted the three that are in our market. 2009 Roble is Vina Sastre’s youngest wine, called joven, and is made from vines that are 15 to 20 years old, an age some wineries use for crianza or riserva wines, which also are aged longer.
Ancient Spanish wine region now in ascendancy
First in a three-part series Ten years ago, I explored Spain’s Ribera del Duero wine region. With the exception of the world-famous Vega Sicilia and well-known Pesquera wineries, the area was a blank slate to most American wine consumers. In June, I returned for a week of visits and tastings. Located between Madrid and Rioja, Ribera del Duero is a red wine region spanning four provinces. Its name means “the banks of the Duero”, the river that runs across Spain and Portugal and on to the Atlantic Ocean. Although winemaking in the region dates from the Roman era, there was little reason for contemporary wine drinkers to seek Ribera wines, as most were light wine made at cooperatives for local consumption. Today, the Ribera del Duero appellation includes some of Spain’s best wines, Architectural Digest-worthy wineries, and a mix of wine styles. One man can be credited with changing Ribera del Duero: Alejandro Fernandez.
Finding new favorites at a Finger Lakes reunion
Peace Corps and wine are not normally linked, but I managed to do just that last week during a trip to New York’s Finger Lakes region. I was a Peace Corps volunteer in Jamaica from 1969 to 1971, and our group held a reunion at the Seneca Lake cottage of Jean Taylor, the wife of our late director, Mac Taylor. We shared stories of a time and place that profoundly affected each of us, and that reminded me of how the Peace Corps expanded my wine passion. Peace Corps paid me about $112 per month. Not much of a beer or rum drinker, I took $36 of my salary each month and traveled to a Kingston wine shop, where I bought 24 half-bottles of whatever they had and returned to my house in Highgate, a mountain town about 30 miles away. Given Jamaica’s hot climate, I put them in my refrigerator and drank one each night. This was decades before temperature-controlled wine storage units, and Highgate often lost electrical power, so no doubt I drank some damaged wines. But I considered each half bottle a privileged treat.
Double harvest reaps layered sauvignon blanc
I finally found a California sauvignon blanc that made me smile. This rare gem is the 2009 Wrath San Saba Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc. Regular readers know my opinion of California wines, that too many have one common denominator-excess. Excessive levels of alcohol, excessive amounts of new French oak barrel aging, excessive ripeness and excessive use of purchased yeast strands designed to impart particular flavors into the wine. The 2009 Wrath San Saba Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc treats its sauvignon blanc more respectfully. Wrath winery is the recent creation of Michael Thomas and his mother, Barbara Thomas Lemmon. Michael Thomas has a doctorate in classical art and archaeology, and for the past 15 years has been excavating in Italian sites and teaching at various American universities. His exposure to Italian culture, food and wine gradually gave him the desire to make wine. In 2007, he and his mother purchased the San Saba Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands appellation, 25 miles from Monterey, Calif.
Two blancs that are anything but basic
Basic wines made by quality-driven producers deliver pleasure and value, such as the 2009 Vincent JJ Bourgogne Blanc and the Vincent Cremant de Bourgogne The Vincent family has owned the acclaimed Chateau Fuisse for five generations. Located in Burgundy’s Macon region, where chardonnay is the principal white grape, Chateau Fuisse produces single-vineyard Pouilly-Fuisses, Saint-Veran and Macon-Villages wines. In 1967, Jean-Jacques Vincent assumed controlled of Chateau Fuisse. Over the course of four decades, he refined the winemaking, built the chateau’s reputation and developed the Vincent brand of wines. The Vincent label is the family’s negociant wines, meaning the wines are made from purchased grapes of various vineyards in the Macon region. Bourgogne Blanc is the basic regional wine. When made by large companies, it is usually vacuous, but in the right hands, Bourgogne Blanc can be an act of craftsmanship. The 2009 Vincent JJ Bourgogne Blanc is simply artistry in a bottle. Antoine Vincent is the son of Jean-Jacques Vincent and has been the winemaker since 2003. After his father retired, Antoine Vincent honored him with the creation of the JJ Bourgogne Blanc label in 2005.
Toast liberte' with three tasty French wines By John Foy - Published: Wednesday, July 6, 2011 If the spirit of independence continues to move you after the Fourth of July is over, why not celebrate Bastille Day, the July 14 holiday symbolizing the French revolt against its kings? Since the French assisted us in our revolution, celebrate theirs with a glass of French wine.
Tavel is synonymous with French rose’ and located near Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but unlike its famous neighbor, rose’ is the only wine produced in Tavel. The 500-year-old Chateau d'Aqueria is one of the best producers in Tavel and its 2010 Rose’ is raspberry red and filled with cherry aroma. It delivers a mouthful of strawberry-cherry flavor with a dry, tangy cherry finish. The 2010 Chateau d'Aqueria Rose' will be delightful sipping in the shade, or alongside a salad of grilled jumbo shrimp or chicken with Boston lettuce, caramelized walnuts and diced strawberries drizzled with balsamic vinegar. Allied Beverage in Carlstadt and R&R Marketing in Fairfield distribute the 2010 Chateau d’Aqueria Rose’. It retails for approximately $18.
A patriotic toast for the Fourth of July
Fourth of July parties call for quaffable, affordable, and, of course, American wines. I like rose’ wines in the summer. They’re eye-pleasing and filled with flavors ranging from strawberry to cherry to cranberry. Refreshingly chilled and lower in alcohol, roses are festive and perfect for informal parties. Wolffer Estate on Long Island offers a delicious 2010 rose’ made from 50 percent merlot and remainder divided between cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, pinot noir and chardonnay. Its salmon color and floral and red berry scents are delightful first impressions, and the first sip is full of cherry flavors with a mineral aftertaste. Unlike many American roses, it’s full-bodied with a dry, clean finish. Serve the 2010 Wolffer Estate Rose’ as an aperitif, or with poached chilled salmon and sliced cucumbers tossed with sour-cream and chopped dill.
Crisp California riesling pairs well with farm-fresh summer fare
Chateau Montelena is famous for its chardonnay and acclaimed for its cabernet sauvignon, but its 2009 Riesling is another well-made wine, and perfect for summer. In 1972, Southern California lawyer James Barrett ventured to Napa Valley and purchased the unoccupied Chateau Montelena. Four years later, it became part of American wine history when its 1973 chardonnay won the famous Paris Tasting of 1976. French wine judges were shocked to discover they had voted it the best white wine in a blind tasting that included bottles of white Burgundy from Premier and Grand Cru-classified vineyards. Barrett’s son Bo graduated from high school in 1972 and spent that summer pulling weeds and removing rocks from the vineyard of his family’s new home. After studying viticulture and enology at Fresno State University, he became the family winemaker in 1981. Barrett maintained the position until 2008, when Cameron Perry was promoted to winemaker. Riesling does best when cultivated in a cool climate. The best rieslings come from Alsace in France and the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and Rheingau regions in Germany. And vineyards in New Zealand and Canada are producing crisp, flavorful rieslings, too.
From estimable to excellent, three wines worthy of Dad By John Foy - Wednesday, June 15, 2011 Looking for a special wine for your Father’s Day gift? Here are three from different wine regions that will evoke a lasting smile and a heartfelt thank you. If your Dad is a California aficionado, give him the 2006 Hidden Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 55% Slope. In 1991, Lynn Hofacket and Casidy Ward purchased a former private hunting club in Sonoma County’s Mayacamas mountains with the idea of renovating and reselling it as a country home. But the property was so remote it could only be reached by heavy-duty four-wheel drive vehicles, helicopter, or by foot. Even today, there is no cell phone reception. After realizing that grapes were the only thing that could make the investment worthwhile, the couple started a six-year project to clear a portion of the wooded property for a 60-acre vineyard. The 55% Slope cabernet sauvignon is named for the vineyard’s angle, which is as steep as a black diamond-rated ski run. The wine has California’s richness, but without the exaggerated oak aromas and extra-ripe raisiny fruit flavors of many California cabernet sauvignons.
Two great wines for barbecues and house parties from Hecht & Bannier
The 2007 Hecht & Bannier Languedoc and the 2010 Hecht & Bannier Languedoc Rose’ are two good-value wines that you’ll want on the table with your summer barbecues and beach house parties. In the 1990s, Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier met while studying for an enology degree in Dijon, France. Each pursued different avenues in the wine trade until 2002, when they established Hecht & Bannier negociant wine business. Until recently, the negociant concept was foreign to the Languedoc region. This wine area has been dominated by large cooperatives making bottom-shelf wine at best, and poorly-made wine regularly. Into this environment Hecht & Bannier brought the Burgundy negociant model: buying freshly fermented wine from various sources, aging, blending and bottling it under their own label, and bringing it to the market. Hecht & Bannier wines come from three sources. The men taste at cooperatives to find the best lots to purchase before those barrels are blended into the generic cooperative wines; they visit individual growers to purchase quality wines; and top producers sell them wine because they want to help Hecht & Bannier enhance the reputation of the Languedoc.
Undiscovered good-value 2010 Domaine Lafage Cote Est
Roussillon is an unknown region for most wine consumers, but this area in southwestern France produces delightful, inexpensive everyday wines like the 2010 Domaine Lafage Cote Est white wine. To the east,Roussillon orders the Mediterranean coast which provides cooling breezes and clay and chalky soil for the vines. To the south are the Pyrenees and neighboring Spain, which gives Roussillon its Catalan culture. It’s the driest and sunniest part of France, so Roussillon is more familiar to tourist than wine consumers, yet its wine history is long. Ironically, Roussillon’s wines improved when its vineyards were destroyed. During the 19th century, phylloxera ravaged the vineyards in France, but Roussillon’s and others were restored by planting disease-resistent rootstock from America. The replanting gave owners the opportunity to restructure their vineyards, creating the birth of Roussillon’s modern viticulture. Jean-Marc and Eliane Lafage, who created Domaine Lafage, are trained enologist who worked at Gallo in California and various wineries in Australia, South Africa and Chile. In 1996, they bought an existing vineyard and then, with youthful energy and a mature vision, changed everything about it.
A balanced riesling- at a bargain price 2010 St. Urbans-Hof Qba
Start your Memorial Day party with one of the best bargains in our market: the 2010 St.Urbans-Hof Riesling Qba. In 1947, Nicolaus Weis founded his winery and named it after St.Urban, the patron saint of winemakers. The winery is located in Germany’s Mosel region, recognized as one of the world’s greatest areas for this grape, so the estate is dedicated to this grape. His son Hermann took over in the 1960s, and possessed with a profound knowledge of riesling, he purchased exquisite vineyard sites in the Mosel and pioneered riesling plantings in Canada. In 1997, Hermann’s son Nicolaus took over the winery. The Mosel has Germany’s steepest vineyards and is among its most northern. If quality wine is to be made, the grapes must come from vineyards that are facing south in order to capture all the sun’s rays. In fact, if you take one of the many tour boats on the Mosel river, you will not see any vineyards where the banks face north. The other distinguishing characteristic of Mosel riesling is the crushed blueish-gray slate that is part of the soil. The slate reflects and retains the sun’s warmth for the vines and provides a minerality to the wine that is prized by riesling drinkers.
Long-aged Rioja tempranillo has its history with Bordeaux
The modern history of Rioja wines travels from Logrono, the principal town in La Rioja, to Bordeaux and back to Logrono’s Marques de Murrieta and its 2001 Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial. Luciano Francisco Ramon de Murrieta was born in Peru in 1822, toward the end of the country’s rebellion against Spain. After Peru achieved independence two years later, the Murrietas migrated to London. In 1844, after service in the Spanish army, Murrieta moved to Logrono and began a life dedicated to making outstanding wine. Taking note of the inferior quality of Rioja wines compared to the French wines he experienced in London, in 1848 Murrieta went to Bordeaux to learn winemaking. He returned four years later and began producing wines that earned him international awards, commercial success and the title Marques de Murrieta from Queen Isabel II. In 1878, he purchased the Ygay estate. Murrieta died childless in 1911. His nephew Julian de Olivares inherited the winery and maintained its status until his death in 1977. The estate was purchased in 1983 by Count Vicente Cebrian Sagarriga and is currently under the direction of his son Vicente and daughter Christina.
Two bright Beaujolais from standout 2009 vintage
When spring arrives, my palate and spirit desires Beaujolais like the 2009 Domaine Chatelus de la Roche and the 2009 Domaine Rochette Beaujolais-Villages. Winter is the time for full-bodied, intensely flavored Rhone wines like Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Hermitage and Cote Rotie; brawny California cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel, and bold Barolo and Barbaresco. But when forsythia, iris, and lilacs are blooming, Beaujolais brings its matching bright flavors and delicate texture to the season. Beaujolais is a large area that is technically part of Burgundy wine region, but it has little in common with the wines of its more illustrious neighbors. Beaujolais is made from gamay not pinot noir, and while the latter receives reverential respect and commands high prices, gamay is casually enjoyed at an everyday tab.
Bouquet of rose’ for mother
Celebrating Mother’s Day with a sparkling or still rose’ brings the right color to a festive moment. Treat your mother royally with a glass of Pol Roger, the Champagne house that received a Royal Warrant- meaning the Queen approved it as an official purveyor to the royal family. In fact, it was served last week at the Buckingham Palace wedding luncheon thrown for the Queen’s grandson, Prince William, and his new bride Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge. The 2002 Pol Roger Rose’ Champagne’s pinkish sheen and red fruit aroma are instantly pleasing. The lively bubbles tingle the palate as cranberry and strawberry flavors glide across it. Enjoy it with Asian cuisine or a rhubarb dessert.
G is for gratifying: Guiraud's dry white vibrant wine
Timeless doesn’t mean frozen in time. Le G de Chateau Guiraud is the dry white wine of one of Bordeaux’s great sweet wine producers. In 1766, Pierre Guiraud purchased the property known as the Maison Noble du Bayle in the village of Sauternes. During the short span of 80 years and three generations, the Guiraud family developed the vineyards and reputation of the chateau. In 1846, Pierre-Aman Guiraud was required to sell the estate for inheritance purposes. A decade later, its name would become timeless when Chateau Guiraud was classified Premier Cru Classe in the historic 1855 ranking of Bordeaux chateaux. Winemaker Xavier Planty arrived at Chateau Guiraud in 1982. Thirteen years later, he began transforming Chateau Guiraud’s viticulture from Sauternes’ accepted practices to organic methods, which led Chateau Guiraud to become the only Premier Cru Classe chateau certified organic by the French Ministry of Agriculture. In 2006, Chateau Guiraud was purchased by a partnership of Planty, Olivier Bernard, the legendary owner of Bordeaux’s outstanding Domaine de Chevalier, Stephan Von Neipperg, owner of St. Emilion’s first-rate Chateau Canon-La Gaffeliere, and automobile producer Robert Peugeot.
Fongoli Montefalco sagrantino succeeds with tradition
Italy is a land with countless grape varietals and sagrantino is one of the more obscure. But a glass of the 2006 Fongoli Montefalco Sagrantino is a wonderful way to learn about it. Sagrantino is indigenous to the Montefalco area in Umbria. Unknown anywhere else in Italy, sagrantino was ignored by the Umbrians, who thought of it as an ancient, unappealing grape. But thanks to research at the University of Milan and determination by a few producers, sagrantino’s reputation changed for the better. Two decades ago, only five wineries made a sagrantino wine. Now there are 75 producers. In 1927, Decio Fongoli Calvani purchased the San Marco estate in Montefalco and began making wine in 1940. Five acres of sagrantino were planted in 1975, and between 1990 and 2008, the estate added another 15 acres of sagrantino. Today the Fongoli estate is a quintessential Umbrian property with 65 acres of vineyards and 20 acres of olive trees, all farmed organically.
A Greek wine that speaks of the sea By John Foy Santorini is home to some of the oldest vines in the world, and at a recent tasting of wines from this Aegean paradise, the 2010 Argyros Assyrtiko stood out. Santorini’s wine history began with a bang. Around 1600 B.C., the center of the island disappeared in a massive volcanic eruption. The sea covered the collapsed land, and a half-moon shape of towering cliffs emerged. The eruption created a soil of volcanic ash, stone and solidified lava devoid of organic matter, inhospitable for growing anything but vines- and tourism. The absence of organic matter protected Santorini’s vines, many centuries old, from phylloxera, the louse that has destroyed vine roots throughout the western world. As they age, the vines are coiled by the growers to protect them from the strong sea winds. Eventually, the basket-shaped vine is too old to be productive, and the grower cuts it back to its rootstock, restarting the cycle.
By John Foy If you’ve ever prepared a nice dinner of liver and fava beans and wondered, “What would Hannibal Lecter do?,” here’s your answer: He’d pour a glass of the 2006 Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva. In 1967, winemakers Giovanni Sacchet and Antonio Zaccheo joined forces and purchased the Carpineto vineyard from the local church near Greve in Chianti, an important town in Tuscany’s Chianti Classico zone. Carpineto derives its name from the Greek word “carpos”, meaning fruit, which grows abundantly on vines and trees in the area. Sacchet hails from northeast Italy and Zaccheo from Apulia, the heel of Italy’s boot. At the outset, they made wine from their vineyard and from grapes from neighbors. By the 1980s, these two non-Tuscans were producing some of that region’s best value wines from Carpineto grapes.
By John Foy - Thursday, March 31, 2011 Chardonnay comes in many guises, but one of its most delightful is the 2009 Joseph Drouhin Saint-Veran. The Macon is a subregion of Burgundy, and its two most popular wines are Macon-Villages and Pouilly-Fuisse. But during the last two decades, Saint-Veran has developed its own appeal Nearly all the wines from the Macon are white and made from chardonnay. In 1971, the Saint-Veran appellation was created from six villages adjacent to the Pouilly-Fuisse appellation. In the 1970s, Pouilly-Fuisse was considered the sophisticated white wine by American consumers, and Macon-Villages the smart choice for good value. During the ensuing decades, chardonnay from California, with its bolder aromas and richer fruit flavors, captured the American palate. In the 1990s, almost like a stealth wine, Saint-Veran began appearing on restaurant wine lists and on retail shelves, its appeal in being the un-California chardonnay.
If you’re looking for a novel wine experience that will impress your been-there-drank-that friends, pour a glass of Ptujska Klet Pullus Welschriesling 2009. The first rule of one-upsmanship in the wine world? Don’t mispronounced the grape or wine name. It’s VELSH-reez-ling. Welschriesling is a white wine grape grown throughout central Europe and in areas of northeast Italy. It is completely unrelated to the riesling grape that produces the great riesling wines of Germany, although it does share riesling’s capability for high production, and it also produces an aromatic wine that is light-bodied with high acidity. Ptujska Klet is Slovenia’s oldest winery and located in the city of Ptuj, in the Styria region. Viticulture in Ptuj and the surrounding area dates to 1239, when monks established the St. Francis Monastery and built the first winery.
Cru Beaujolais is one of my favorite wines, and I delighted in tasting both the 2009 Vieilles Vignes and the 2009 Les Rouchaux Moulin-a-Vent from Thibault Liger-Belair. Beaujolais is part of Burgundy, but it differs from the rest of the region in many ways. The most important is that its red wines are made from the gamay grape, whereas pinot noir is the source of all the other red wines of this renowned region. The bulk of Beaujolais wines are labeled with the area’s name and are simple, quaffable wine consumed within a few years of bottling. But there are 10 villages whose wines are recognized for their superior aromas, flavors and aging potential and are entitled to be labeled with the village name. These are termed Cru Beaujolais, and Moulin-a-Vent is one of the most prestigious of the 10.
By John Foy - Published March 10, 2011 In a world of $100 bottles of Barbaresco, the reasonably priced cellar-quality 2006 Ceretto Asij Barbaresco is a rare gem. Ceretto is a story about quality. At the turn of the 20th century, the youthful Riccardo Ceretto was making wine from his family’s vineyard in Piedmont, Italy, for the customers of his parent’s country inn. His winemaking skills earned a job and eventual partnership at a local winery. By the 1930s, he was producing wine under his own name, and in the 1960s, he brought his sons, Bruno and Marcello, into the business. Marcello took on the winemaking tasks and Bruno focused on building the business. Together, the brothers began acquiring vineyards in Barbaresco and Barolo and changing the way wine was made in Piedmont. In the 1970s, they were the first Piedmont producers to install stainless-steel tanks for fermentation. And they brought other modern winemaking techniques to a region steeped in tradition, reducing the time consumers had to wait for Barolo and Barbaresco wines to be drinkable.
New World pinot noir still made from old vines By John Foy - Thursday, March 03, 2011 Two weeks ago, I opened a bottle of the 2009 Bodega Chacra Barda pinot noir expecting another disappointing New World pinot noir. Instead I was pleasantly surprised. In 2004, Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, whose family produces the world-renowned Sassicaia from its Tuscan estate Tenuta San Guido, purchased an abandoned property in the Rio Nergo Valley in Argentina’s Patagonia region. More than 600 miles from Buenos Aires, Patagonia is a barren desert where hardly anything grows except grapevines, which flourish in the poor soil. What interested Rocchetta in the location was the discovery of a vineyard with pinot noir vines planted in 1932 and 1955. In 2003, he harvested the grapes from these plants and made a wine to see if it warranted his attention. Impressed with the result, he purchased the vineyard and named it Bodega Chacra (Chacra is a square plot of land surrounded by poplar trees).
Wine lovers unfamiliar with aglianico will want to try more after tasting the 2005 Feudi di San Gregorio Serpico. In 1986, the Capaldo and Ercolino families founded Feudi di San Gregorio in Sorbo Serpico, a tiny village in Italy’s Campania region. Until then, most producers in Campania and the rest of southern Italy directed their efforts to the bulk wine category, and aglianico was an important source for red wines. But by the mid-1990s, Feudi di San Gregorio showed the wine world that Aglianico was capable of making wines as elegant and pleasing as Italy’s most respected- Barolo, Barbaresco, brunello di Montalcino, and amarone. Aglianico has a substantial amount of tannin and acidity and explosive black fruit and herbal aromas and flavors. It requires ripeness to avoid tasting aggressively tannic or astringent, and at least five years of bottle aging to integrate its components. Once aged and balanced, Aglianico can produce wines with the richness of California’s zinfandel and the fullness of Rhone and New World syrah, and it has great cellaring potential. The winemaker’s challenge is taming the tannins and controlling the acidity.
By John Foy - Thursday, February 17, 2011 The 2009 Domaine Bassac Cotes du Thongue Syrah delivers quality and good value. Cotes du Thongue is a wine growing section in France’s Languedoc region, a vast area that produces much of the country’s bulk wine. But amidst its picturesque villages and valleys dotted with lavender and fruit trees are vineyards owned by winemakers like the Delhon brothers, who bring consumers good wines at everyday prices. The Delhons were ahead of their time when in 1990 they dedicated Domaine Bassac to organic farming, following the rules of Ecocert, an international organization that certifies agricultural and cosmetic products. Domaine Bassac’s vineyards are spread across 150 acres. Like many producers in the Languedoc, it cultivates various red and white grapes, with syrah being a focal point.
By John Foy - Wednesday, February 09, 2011 Sensual sparkling rose’s and roses and silky tawny port with decadent chocolates are both wonderful ways to celebrate Valentine’s Day.
By John Foy - Wednesday, February 02, 2011 Castello Banfi is a well-known Tuscan winery, and its newest Chianti Classico wines, brought only recently to the American market, offers quality and value. While acclaimed for their Brunello di Montalcino and Super-Tuscan wines Excelsus, Summus and Cum Laude, Banfi produces flavorful and affordable Chianti wines, too. In 1919, John Mariani began a wine importing company in New York. The following year saw the start of Prohibition, and for the next 13 years, Mariani’s company survived by selling Italian food products. With the repeal of Prohibition, Mariani traveled to Europe and re-established his wine importing business. In the 1960s, his sons, John Jr. and Harry joined the business and built Banfi into a major American wine importer. In 1978, they purchased land in Tuscany’s Montalcino area and created vineyards and built a beautiful castello that houses an elegant hotel and first-rate restaurant.
By John Foy - Wednesday, January 26, 2011 New Zealand is best known for its sauvignon blanc wines, but it also produces flavorful good-value pinot noirs, such as the 2008 Brancott Vineyards Marlborough. Most wineconsumers are unaware of how recent New Zealand wines are to the world stage. Pinot Noir seems particularly suited to Marlborough’s cool climate. Burgundy produces the world’s greatest pinot noirs wines and is among the coolest regions in France. Its northern neighbor, Champagne, is the coldest wine area in France and uses pinot noir to produce some of its most extraordinary wines. And in America, Oregon pinot noirs have more complexity and better balance than those coming from warmer California.
One great leap for California sauvignon blanc By John Foy - Wednesday, January 12, 2011
In 1964, philosophy graduate student and aspiring winemaker Warren Winiarski departed the University of Chicago and headed to California with his wife and two young children. Like millions of Americans before him, his westward journey was propelled by a dream, but unlike many his came to fruition. After experiencing Italian wines while studying in Italy, Winiarski decided to go to Napa Valley. His winemaking apprenticeship began at Souverain Cellars and a new winery named Robert Mondavi. In 1969, he tasted the cabernet sauvignon of Nathan Fay and knew that he wanted to make wine like Fay’s. It was destiny, perhaps, that the property adjoining Fay’s vineyard was for sale. In 1970, Winiarski purchased it and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars was born.
Huge pleaures from obscure pinot noir By John Foy - Wednesday, January 05, 2011 Start 2011 with a glass of 2006 Domaine Thenard Givry Clos Saint-Pierre, a reasonably-priced red Burgundy from a very good producer. Givry is a village in the Cote Chalonnaise district of France’s Burgundy region. South of Burgundy’s prestigious and expensive Cote d’Or area, Cote Chalonnaise produces white and red wines for both everyday consumption and short term aging of less than a decade. Within its boundaries is the excellent Domaine Thenard. The Bordeaux-Montrieux family has owed land in Givry since 1760. In 1842, Baron Paul Thenard married into the family and began producing wine and acquiring prime vineyards in the Cote d’Or. Over the last 30 years, I enjoyed bottles of Domaine Thenard while in France, but rarely saw it in America because Domaine Thenard sold its wine to the negociant firm Remoissenet, which bottled it under its label for sales in the United States. In 2005, Remoissenet was sold to an investor group, and Domaine Thenard decided to bottle and sell its wine independently.
John Foy's Pre-2012 Articles...
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By John Foy - Published: Thursday, December 29, 2011 
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By John Foy The Star-Ledger - September 14, 2011
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Wednesday, August 31, 2011
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Spain, old vines, new ideas 
By John Foy - The Star-Ledger - Published: Wednesday, August 10, 2011
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By John Foy 
By John Foy - Thursday, April 21, 2011, 1:00 AM
Carpineto lives up to its fruity name
Drouhin offers balanced chardonnay at the right price
Slovenian winery offers crisp white
Two Cru Beaujolais worth cellaring
A Barbaresco that's worth the wait, be it 3 hours or 3 years
Full-bodied aglianico erupts with black fruit flavors
Versatile, well-priced syrah for winter nights, summer days
Rose's and ports to tantalize your love
Flavorful Chianti ideal for Italian feast
Stag's Leap Sauvignon Blanc
© John Foy - The Wine Odyssey 2012
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