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Wine Dining - My Rating System
Wine Trails: Dining & Lodging: Tuscany: Chianti Classico Zone Tuscany is a large region incorporating some of the wine world’s most prestigious labels. Bolgheri’s Sassicaia and Ornellaia fame its western coast; Vino Nobile di Montepulciano anchors its south-eastern point; Brunello di Montalcino is its southern star; and the Chianti zone spreads itself across the center of the region. In the heart of the Chianti zone, between Florence and Siena, lies the darling of many wine lists, gourmets, and travelers: Chianti Classico. Thirty years of traveling there has never bored me. And 2006 was a doubly rewarding time with April and October visits. Early spring offered empty roads, blooming roadside daffodils, budding fruit and olive trees, and awaking vines. I parked my car in the center of the village Castellina in Chianti and walked through an arched stone passage way along what was the outer wall of the village to an inconspicuous door marked Al Gallopapa. A gentleman in his mid-forties welcomes me and leads me to a table at the end of the front room built with the same kind of boulders that created the ancient wall. With the same friendly warmth, a waiter pours a complimentary glass of Ca’ de Bosco, one of Italy’s outstanding sparking wines and the gentleman reappears with a plate of three small “nibbles”. I notice the room is narrow but the tables have been spaced to avoid a cramped feeling. The lighting conveys privacy without being dark. The plate, which carried a sliver of fried zucchini, local cheese, and ham was quickly consumed. Another is brought bearing four larger treats: Zucchini with diced mushrooms; a “shooter” of diced spring vegetables in lentil cream and foam; a potato sliced half-dollar size, fried and coated with fava bean sauce; and flower-shaped fried anchovy. The cordial waiter, who speaks perfect English, removes this empty plate and the gentleman who welcomed me, Tiziano Amoroso, Al Gallopapa’s owner, presents the menu. He knows how to start a meal. As I read through the excellent wine list, Tiziano Amoroso focused my eyes on the Catell’in Villa, Chianti Classico, Riserva, 1993. Having established a good feeling, I accepted his recommendation. At the outset, the wine glistened with black cherry color; exposed mild fruit aromas, and had a tasty blend of raspberry-cherry-black tea flavors with soft tannins and an elegant finish. The first course let me know that Al Gallopapa also knows how to dress a dish. On the jet black plate, the chef spread a translucent puree of potato; the pale flesh of the rabbit galantine was rolled with sliced red bell peppers and placed over the puree; chopped green arugula was flaked on top; and to the left was a silky mousse of rabbit liver and to the right was shredded tuna with tangy diced black olives. The dish cried for a camera lens. As the waiter placed it on the table, the chef appeared bearing a tray of warm, slightly salted biscuits to accompany the dish. The flavors and presentation go way beyond the WOW-factor. The chef’s lasagna with venison is in a layer cake-like stacking cut into quarters and arranged clockwise over a bitter chocolate sauce. Seasoned with thyme, parsley, and coriander each bite explodes in the mouth like a Medieval canon shooting at Castellina’s wall.As I tasted the combination of lasagna, venison, and chocolate I recalled that in the mid-1980s, I had a chocolate sauce over fettuccini at a restaurant in Rome. It was awful. Al Gallopapa’s is remarkable, memorable, and perfect with the decanted 1993 Catell’in Villa, Chianti Classico, Riserva, which at its one-hour mark, developed an enticing tobacco and dried flowers aroma; the flavor tilted towards tobacco and Oolong tea, and the texture was supple. A delicious recommendation. The spring loin of lamb was served with a “brick” made from slices of red bell pepper, carrot, and potato, next to it was the two-step artichoke that the chef boiled and than fried. And over all of it was my very pleased palate. I decided to forgo dessert and just concentrate on the pleasure of the 1993 Catell’in Villa, Chianti Classico, Riserva as it reached its second hour in the decanter. The color was still eye-appealing, the fruit, tobacco, and tea flavors integrated; the tannins round; it remained an elegant wine. Fall is just as friendly at Al Gallopapa. Quail arrives stuffed with kale and nested with creamy polenta. The kale perks up the palate for the buttery polenta and the flavorful bird. It provides a vivid counterpoint for the acidity in the fruit flavor of the 1995 Castello di Cacchiano, Chianti Classico. The chef’s fascination with chocolate and pasta reappears in October’s lasagna of goat. The drizzled chocolate plate centers the quartered lasagna filled with pureed goat with a bouquet of arugula in the middle and a nugget of rose-colored goat to the side. This is not your Italian mama’s cooking. And, oh my god, is it good. The fall season brought a roasted pigeon hugging a cabbage “bag” containing moist barley and a square of the most delicious cauliflower I have ever had the pleasure to bite. The richness of the pigeon, the cross of textures between the barley and cauliflower, the explosion of flavors the chef created on this one dish is reason enough to travel to Al Gallopapa. And just to push the pleasure scale one notch higher, the 1995 Castello di Cacchiano’s expanded in the decanter revealing black cherry and rhubarb flavors perfectly blended with the tannins and acidity. Perfectly blended is Al Gallopapa: creative and talented chef; attentive dining room staff, and an owner with the touch of a concert conductor. Bravo Tiziano, Bravo. Ratings: Upscale trattoria in the center of the village, Castellina in Chianti. Should be on every diners list of restaurants. Address: 14-16 via delle Volte. Phone 0577.742939 same # for fax. tiziano@gallopapa.com
La Tenda Rossa is the incarnation of the expression, “it’s worth the drive.” And I’ve done it at least a half-dozen times. Located in Cerbaia Val di Pesa, a small town about 20 minutes southwest of Florence, the Chinese red-colored front door is always opened by one of the daughters of the two families running this remarkable restaurant. Warmly greeted, you are escorted into a dining room that is elegant without being overstated; chic without being set in a time zone. It is a statement about the refinement of Italian style. One of the daughters will pour you an aperitif of Italian sparkling wine. A small plate will arrive from the kitchen bearing tasty morsels. Another daughter will bring you the menu and the stunning wine list. And, if you are lucky, Natasha will assist you with both. The fathers and sons are in the kitchen, and I think a mother or two. They will take you on a culinary journey of their interpretation of Italian cuisine. It might be the Fantasy of Foie Gras: sautéed and served with a fruit-wine reduced sauce; sautéed and served with spinach; coated with bitter chocolate; coated with caramelized sugar with a supporting role from celery sticks. It is imaginative, a tour across your palate, mental and physical, good, very good, and excellent all on one dish. Or you might have the raviolini of duck that taste so good you wish it was ravioloni. Or you might be treated with a filet of branzino and porcini mushrooms that is scented with thyme. As you eat it time is stopped. Than there is the cannolini of wild fennel with the rabbit that is flavored with rosemary. You understand why you drove to Cerbaia- and why you will return. Than again, Natasha might suggest you order the pigeon with the breast rosy and the leg stuffed with foie gras; or calf’s liver with garlic aroma and steamed leeks; or the local fish baked or steamed with sliced potatoes and drizzled with deep green Tuscan olive oil…Or, Or, Or…. Than there are the desserts but why should I tease you with the ones I had that you won’t because they are like Heraclites: always changing. Ok, I will be slightly sadistic: the chocolate mousse with the caramel sauce is still in my palate memory. It was years ago, yet I can still taste its richness, velvety texture, picture perfect presentation. When you dine at La Tenda Rossa it could be any of these dishes or none. It depends on the season; it depends on the minds, whims, creativity of the fathers and sons in the kitchen. Oh yes, the wine list. Spend some time with it. You’ll be rewarded. Talk to the daughters, they will give you good advise. For a few hours they’ll make you part of the family. And when you’re driving out of Cerbaia you’ll be thinking about your return trip. I’m sure I’ll make it to a dozen. Rating:
Elegant, first-class dining. In Cerbaia, near San Casciano
which is about twenty minutes south of Florence, worth every second
of the drive- even if you get lost like I did one time. Address
9-14 Piazza del Monumento.
Vignale is a mini conglomerate in the center of the picturesque village, Radda in Chianti. There is the comfortable hotel Vignale with an outdoor swimming pool at the top of the hill; the Vignale wine shop inside the hotel; the charming Restaurant Vignale in the center of the village, and, of course, the Vignale chianti classico wines. With its Tuscan ambience of wood beans, tiled floors, and nicely spaced tables offering views through the wood-framed windows of olive groves and vineyards hugging the hillsides, Restaurant Vignale makes a perfect lunch or dinner destination after touring alluring Radda. The chef makes the soufflé vegetables in paper thin eggplant. Three eggplant puffs sit on a bed of shaved artichokes. One contains a puree of spinach; another a mix of finely sliced red bell pepper, zucchini, and artichoke; and the third minced potato. Each vegetable flavor is piercingly fresh. A bowl of Maccheroncelli pasta with duck ragout arrives It is as delicious as the vegetables. This is a chef who knows how to cook. The wine list is not extensive but it is filled with good selections at reasonable prices. The 2000, Felsina, “Rancia” Chianti Classico, Riserva is modern with its toasted oak aroma and taste but does not overwhelm the black cherry fruit flavor. It is a good friend to the vegetables and a welcomed partner with the duck-coated Maccheroncelli. Another visit brought a pecorino flan centered on the plate and surrounded by spring asparagus and artichokes dressed in emerald green Tuscan olive oil and balsamic vinegar. And the pecorino made an encore appearance on a Bruschetta with fava beans. Tasty ways to enjoy spring. And pappardelle with lamb ragout is a great reason to spin your fork. The fork also transports roasted leg of lamb stuffed with artichokes- Vignale provides marvelous moments of meditation on the pleasures of lamb. Vignale produces a flavorful sparkling brut wine in the champagne method that is a delightful aperitif. Its 1999 Chianti Classico riserva was traditional and very nice with vegetable courses. On the other side was Fontodi’s Chianti Classico, Vigna del Sorba, 2001 which is all about the contemporary rage for infusing the wine with new oak flavors and aromas. Vignale’s prices are fair, its food and ambience a model of casual Italian dining at its best. When in Radda it’s the best choice. And the same can be said for its hotel. Rating: Traditional trattoria on second floor in the center of the village, Radda in Chianti. Address: 23 via XX Settembre. Phone 0577.738094 same # for fax.
Albergaccio di Castellina is either rustic or rustically chic, depending on where you sit. If it’s ground-level than you’re near the entrance door and the kitchen which needs no further explanation. If it’s down the flight of stairs in the larger space with the wall artifacts, china cabinet, and flower arrangements than the stone walls, curtained windows, and comfortable tables put you in a pleasant countryside dining room. Owner Francesco Cacciatori has three or four prix fixe menus and an a la carte menu, all offering traditional and imaginative selections. One of the latter is the tasty Variations of Pigeon; you receive an attractive rendition of sliced medium-rare pigeon breast; pigeon mousse in aspic; and pigeon liver pate with prunes. The trio blended well the 1995 Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico chosen from the list loaded with Tuscan wines and a smattering of other Italian regions, plus a few from Bordeaux and Burgundy. As good as the trifecta of pigeon was, the sliced rabbit leg with green apple was even better. Accompanied with a small chicory and tomato salad the thyme-scent rabbit with a glass of Vernaccia di San Gimignano gives a good view into the chef’s talents. Those skills were even higher with the ricotta gnocchi with Tuscan white truffles. Clouds barely weight more than Albergaccio ricotta gnocchi. And the pappardelle with venison sauce is an ode to fall and winter dining. The blackish-colored 2001, Rocca delle Machie, Chianti Classico, Riserva di Fizzano, stood apart from the venison sauce with its pronounced toasted French oak scent and taste and cabernet sauvignon and merlot influence. Duck two ways brought a grilled, sliced rosy duck breast that once more proved that wild birds always taste better than domestic ones. However, the stewed leg was an exercise in chewing for little reward in spite of the delicious yellow peppers that accompanied it. More rewarding was the traditional Tuscan dish of intensely flavored roasted leg of wild pig. The leg was stuffed with fennel, seasoned with rosemary, and plated with roasted potatoes and apple puree. Dishes like this will make you happy to eat at any table in Albergaccio di Castellina.
After two hours in the decanter, the Fonterutoli is open and expressive;
but its message is one of modern winemaking where the mix of cabernet
sauvignon and sangiovese and oak barrel aging manipulate the wine
so that Chianti Classico imitates Bordeaux. That’s not to
say the wine isn’t flavorful and well-made; it just doesn’t
have its sangiovese-Tuscan identity. And the same was said about
the 2001, Rocca delle Machie, Chianti Classico, Riserva di Fizzano.
You can begin with a traditional beef carpaccio with arugula and shaved parmigiano; or maybe you’ll prefer quickly fried slices of sole and zucchini with a slightly spicy red pepper sauce; or the freshest lobster sliced over and around garden vegetables marinated in San Felice’s deep green olive oil and vinegar. Each gives you the best ingredients treated expertly by the chefs. Risotto with porcini mushrooms reminds you what porcini mushrooms are: meaty, aromatic, and intensely flavorful. A faint cousin to the spongy, bland porcini’s sold in America stores. Ah, and the risotto is cooked al dente and each kernel is bitingly delicious with mushroom flavor. A faint cousin to the soggy, cream-coated risotto delivered from some American cooks who assassinate risotto so often they should be charged with culinary murder. Than there was the plate of lasagna bearing seasonal vegetables laced with crunchy bacon from local pigs and tied together with local goat cheese making you stop and think: why haven’t I dined at San Felice every time I come to the Chianti Classico zone. The dining room staff is so attentive and unobtrusive that you hardly notice they have decanted and poured, and refilled your glass with 1999, San Felice Chianti Classico, Riserva, Poggio Rosso. But you’ve noticed that the wine is silky, deep, and not following today’s fashionable recipe of over ripe fruit and French oak-infused vanilla flavor. It’s why the sommelier had to refill your glass. Elegant is the word to describe the Poggio Rosso. This dinner brings rose-colored medallions of lamb with chicory and sautéed potatoes; and another dinner grilled lamb chops with a vegetable crust positioned over a mound of wild mushrooms that the chef bought earlier in the day from local mushroom gathers. Your palate is opened to woodsy flavors with dense textures and sweet flavors with soft textures. You think back to the porcini and praise the mushroom god for being multi-headed. Lamb is the natural choice at San Felice because it comes from nearby farms and is perfect with Vigorello, San Felice’s super-Tuscan wine that blends a slight majority of sangiovese with cabernet sauvignon and merlot. And than there is the spectacular Brunello di Montalcino, Campogiovanni, that is the crown jewel of Leonardo Bellaccini, the talented winemaker at San Felice since 1984. You’ll find all of San Felice’s wines in the wine book that also contains a selection of the region’s best producers and many other offerings. They go well with the cheeses offered each evening. At San Felice it is wise to think about dessert. I still do about the hot chocolate and hazelnut soufflé served with lemon ice cream.
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© John Foy - The Wine Odyssey 2008
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